On Oct 21, 10:56*am, Ryder Rick <rickb...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Heck, I wonder if the pulley din't fall off?!

Looks like we have a winner.

Morning, Rick. Last night I pulled off the inner primary, got a look
at the sprocket on the outside of the transmission (the one the belt
goes around) and... well, look-ee here... the splines on the
sprocket are completely worn off and the big nut that holds it on has
spun loose (just resting loosely on the main shaft).

So, like you conjectured, it's the sprocket and there's nothing wrong
with the transmission! Yah!

The noises that were emanating from that area were due to the sprocket
riding over the splines on the main shaft as the shaft spun.

The night before last, with the inner primary still on, I was trying
to determine if your suspicion was correct by getting a pry bar in
there to see if the sprocket would wiggle. It seemed rock solid, so I
had given up hope on that being the cause.

Kinda funny because, I had quickly removed the inner primary and gone
to the other side of the bike to help my father get the transmission
top-cover off, so I didn't notice the sprocket's condition right away
(my father's a former auto mechanic, so I asked him to come to give me
his opinion on the shape of the gears). So we're standing there,
looking in there and those gears look perfectly fine... There's still
tranny oil in it too. Huh?

Then we noticed the sprocket.

Looking at the main shaft seal on the primary, it's been badly
deformed - cupped outward along the shaft. The seal on the
transmission looks okay though, so I'm thinking I should just leave
it. The sprocket had been grinding against the inside of the primary
a bit, creating some shavings.

I was concerned about the fact that the tranny had lost some fluid
while on the side-stand after the bike broke down but, if I'm correct,
I think that can be blamed on the sprocket not being firmly pressed
against the sleeve that comes out of the tranny (around the main
shaft). The main shaft has splines and seems to me that, without the
sprocket firmly pressed against the sleeve, fluid could escape along
the spline grooves.

As for the sprocket itself and the fact the nut holding it on was off,
I'm guessing that once the splines inside the sprocket wore
sufficiently for it to spin around the splines on the main shaft, it
simply spun the nut off (there's a plate bolted around the nut to
prevent it from loosening under normal circumstances).

Fortunately, the splines on the main shaft coming out of the
transmission look just fine - all the 'give' having come from the
softer sprocket.

So this is good news! Thanks for all the help, guys. Another round
of drinks for everyone!

On Oct 22, 6:46*pm, Bob Mann <bobm...@mtsremove.net> wrote:
> "Road Glidin' Don" <d.lan...@gmail.com> wrote in news:57f03fae-75c0-475d-
> b691-1a521a4ba...@d36g2000prf.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 22, 1:58*pm, kickstart <kickstart...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >> 93-01 trans housings will work.
> >> Gears will work 5 or new 6 spd replacements from 84 - 07
> >> I am not sure bout 08-09 prob still the same.
> >> In 93 the trans changed to the pan underneath thats when the oil tank
> >> was moved from the saddle bag- last year FLHS
> >> In 02 the rear pivot shaft to the swing arm changed from 5/8" tp 3/4"
> >> HD went to the larger swing arm that year.
>
> > Hey Kickstart. *Back again for a clarification. *Would I be correctin
> > assuming the above is for FL's and that trannies from Dyna's don't
> > apply, regardless of the year?
>
> > Anyway, it would appear that the gear set taken out of Bob Mann's '04
> > FL would do the trick then (so long as my tranny case isn't damaged),
> > huh?
>
> > Hey Bob! *What are ya drinkin'?
>
> At the moment, red wine, but I'll switch to Tequila if you're buying. *
> <sfsf>
> Let me check it out and I'll get back to you.

Hi Bob. Looks like I won't need a gear set. In case you haven't read
my reply to Rick yet, it turned out to be the transmission sprocket.
Should be an easy fix (much cheaper too!)

Thanks just the same.

it turned out to be the transmission sprocket.
> Should be an easy fix (much cheaper too!)
>



sooooooo you need a pulley, 32 or 34 tooth ?
I have a couple laying around

kickstart

On Oct 23, 11:08*am, "Road Glidin' Don" <d.lan...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Oct 22, 6:46*pm, Bob Mann <bobm...@mtsremove.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Road Glidin' Don" <d.lan...@gmail.com> wrote in news:57f03fae-75c0-475d-
> > b691-1a521a4ba...@d36g2000prf.googlegroups.com:
>
> > > On Oct 22, 1:58*pm, kickstart <kickstart...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > >> 93-01 trans housings will work.
> > >> Gears will work 5 or new 6 spd replacements from 84 - 07
> > >> I am not sure bout 08-09 prob still the same.
> > >> In 93 the trans changed to the pan underneath thats when the oil tank
> > >> was moved from the saddle bag- last year FLHS
> > >> In 02 the rear pivot shaft to the swing arm changed from 5/8" tp 3/4"
> > >> HD went to the larger swing arm that year.
>
> > > Hey Kickstart. *Back again for a clarification. *Would I be correct in
> > > assuming the above is for FL's and that trannies from Dyna's don't
> > > apply, regardless of the year?
>
> > > Anyway, it would appear that the gear set taken out of Bob Mann's '04
> > > FL would do the trick then (so long as my tranny case isn't damaged),
> > > huh?
>
> > > Hey Bob! *What are ya drinkin'?
>
> > At the moment, red wine, but I'll switch to Tequila if you're buying. *
> > <sfsf>
> > Let me check it out and I'll get back to you.
>
> Hi Bob. *Looks like I won't need a gear set. *In case you haven't read
> my reply to Rick yet, it turned out to be the transmission sprocket.
> Should be an easy fix (much cheaper too!)
>
> Thanks just the same.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

No problem.
For future (or hopefully not) reference, the gears in a 2004 Ultra and
a 1998 FLTR are exactly the same.
If you (or anyone else for that matter) should happen to need them at
some time let me know. I can get them on the bus to Edmonton the next
day.

Bob

On Oct 23, 11:05*am, kickstart <kickstart...@gmail.com> wrote:
> *it turned out to be the transmission sprocket.
>
> > Should be an easy fix (much cheaper too!)
>
> sooooooo you need a pulley, 32 or 34 tooth ?
> I have a couple laying around

You have? Well, I think it's a 32, but I'll have to check for sure
once I get home.

Road Glidin' Don wrote:
> On Oct 21, 10:56 am, Ryder Rick <rickb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Heck, I wonder if the pulley din't fall off?!
>
> Looks like we have a winner.
>
> Morning, Rick. Last night I pulled off the inner primary, got a look
> at the sprocket on the outside of the transmission (the one the belt
> goes around) and... well, look-ee here... the splines on the
> sprocket are completely worn off and the big nut that holds it on has
> spun loose (just resting loosely on the main shaft).
>
> So, like you conjectured, it's the sprocket and there's nothing wrong
> with the transmission! Yah!
>
> The noises that were emanating from that area were due to the sprocket
> riding over the splines on the main shaft as the shaft spun.
>
> The night before last, with the inner primary still on, I was trying
> to determine if your suspicion was correct by getting a pry bar in
> there to see if the sprocket would wiggle. It seemed rock solid, so I
> had given up hope on that being the cause.
>
> Kinda funny because, I had quickly removed the inner primary and gone
> to the other side of the bike to help my father get the transmission
> top-cover off, so I didn't notice the sprocket's condition right away
> (my father's a former auto mechanic, so I asked him to come to give me
> his opinion on the shape of the gears). So we're standing there,
> looking in there and those gears look perfectly fine... There's still
> tranny oil in it too. Huh?
>
> Then we noticed the sprocket.
>
> Looking at the main shaft seal on the primary, it's been badly
> deformed - cupped outward along the shaft. The seal on the
> transmission looks okay though, so I'm thinking I should just leave
> it. The sprocket had been grinding against the inside of the primary
> a bit, creating some shavings.
>
> I was concerned about the fact that the tranny had lost some fluid
> while on the side-stand after the bike broke down but, if I'm correct,
> I think that can be blamed on the sprocket not being firmly pressed
> against the sleeve that comes out of the tranny (around the main
> shaft). The main shaft has splines and seems to me that, without the
> sprocket firmly pressed against the sleeve, fluid could escape along
> the spline grooves.
>
> As for the sprocket itself and the fact the nut holding it on was off,
> I'm guessing that once the splines inside the sprocket wore
> sufficiently for it to spin around the splines on the main shaft, it
> simply spun the nut off (there's a plate bolted around the nut to
> prevent it from loosening under normal circumstances).
>
> Fortunately, the splines on the main shaft coming out of the
> transmission look just fine - all the 'give' having come from the
> softer sprocket.
>
> So this is good news! Thanks for all the help, guys. Another round
> of drinks for everyone!
>
>
>

Now the big question is how did the nut fall off?
A 98 should have a notched lock ring around the nut with (2) 1/4" bolts
holding it to the sprocket!

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 17:26:08 GMT, Ryder Rick <rickb794@gmail.com>
wrote:

>Road Glidin' Don wrote:

<schnipp>

>> Fortunately, the splines on the main shaft coming out of the
>> transmission look just fine - all the 'give' having come from the
>> softer sprocket.
>>
>> So this is good news! Thanks for all the help, guys. Another round
>> of drinks for everyone!
>
>Now the big question is how did the nut fall off?
>A 98 should have a notched lock ring around the nut with (2) 1/4" bolts
>holding it to the sprocket!

Umm, WAG, but I'd bet my money on th' old adage about th' last time he
was in there. Good thing I ain't ever done that.

Snarl... well, at least th' same thing twice

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 08:29:07 -0700 (PDT), "Road Glidin' Don"
<d.langkd@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Oct 21, 10:56*am, Ryder Rick <rickb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Heck, I wonder if the pulley din't fall off?!
>
>Looks like we have a winner.

Cool beans Don! This time put it back together th' right way.

Snarl... <d n' r>

On Oct 23, 11:26*am, Ryder Rick <rickb...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Road Glidin' Don wrote:
> > On Oct 21, 10:56 am, Ryder Rick <rickb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >> Heck, I wonder if the pulley din't fall off?!
>
> > Looks like we have a winner.
>
> > Morning, Rick. *Last night I pulled off the inner primary, got a look
> > at the sprocket on the outside of the transmission (the one the belt
> > goes around) and... *well, look-ee here... *the splines on the
> > sprocket are completely worn off and the big nut that holds it on has
> > spun loose (just resting loosely on the main shaft).
>
> > So, like you conjectured, it's the sprocket and there's nothing wrong
> > with the transmission! *Yah!
>
> > The noises that were emanating from that area were due to the sprocket
> > riding over the splines on the main shaft as the shaft spun.
>
> > The night before last, with the inner primary still on, I was trying
> > to determine if your suspicion was correct by getting a pry bar in
> > there to see if the sprocket would wiggle. *It seemed rock solid, so I
> > had given up hope on that being the cause.
>
> > Kinda funny because, I had quickly removed the inner primary and gone
> > to the other side of the bike to help my father get the transmission
> > top-cover off, so I didn't notice the sprocket's condition right away
> > (my father's a former auto mechanic, so I asked him to come to give me
> > his opinion on the shape of the gears). *So we're standing there,
> > looking in there and those gears look perfectly fine... *There's still
> > tranny oil in it too. *Huh?
>
> > Then we noticed the sprocket.
>
> > Looking at the main shaft seal on the primary, it's been badly
> > deformed - cupped outward along the shaft. *The seal on the
> > transmission looks okay though, so I'm thinking I should just leave
> > it. *The sprocket had been grinding against the inside of the primary
> > a bit, creating some shavings.
>
> > I was concerned about the fact that the tranny had lost some fluid
> > while on the side-stand after the bike broke down but, if I'm correct,
> > I think that can be blamed on the sprocket not being firmly pressed
> > against the sleeve that comes out of the tranny (around the main
> > shaft). *The main shaft has splines and seems to me that, without the
> > sprocket firmly pressed against the sleeve, fluid could escape along
> > the spline grooves.
>
> > As for the sprocket itself and the fact the nut holding it on was off,
> > I'm guessing that once the splines inside the sprocket wore
> > sufficiently for it to spin around the splines on the main shaft, it
> > simply spun the nut off (there's a plate bolted around the nut to
> > prevent it from loosening under normal circumstances).
>
> > Fortunately, the splines on the main shaft coming out of the
> > transmission look just fine - all the 'give' having come from the
> > softer sprocket.
>
> > So this is good news! *Thanks for all the help, guys. *Another round
> > of drinks for everyone!
>
> Now the big question is how did the nut fall off?
> A 98 should have a notched lock ring around the nut with (2) 1/4" bolts
> holding it to the sprocket!

Yep, that's what I was wondering too, Rick. And, since I bought the
bike new and do my own wrenching and have never touched that nut, it
must be on the way it was put on in the factory.

My suspicion is that the retaining, notched lock ring isn't designed
to hold, once the splines stop engaging the shaft. That nut - which
is a reverse thread - could be spun off as a result. That's the only
explanation I can think of, since it appears impossible for it to
loosen any other way.

It failed when I shifted from first to second gear. As I let out the
clutch and second engaged, the force on the sprocket would have been
in a clock-wise direction (belt pulling at top of sprocket, trying to
turn it that way), right?

Now suppose the sprocket has no splines at that time (having just lost
their last bit of traction). Then that clockwise twist would not be
resisted by the splines on the main shaft anymore. Instead, it would
be applied to the only thing left - that nut. And, with that nut
being a left-hand thread, a clockwise twist would unloosen it -
perhaps with more force than the notched ring is designed to
withstand, since there should be splines to help in resisting that
twisting force.

The notched ring isn't very thick. From the looks of the wear
underneath the pointy ends of the nut, it seems it just sprung a bit
to ride over top of the notched lock ring.

On Oct 23, 12:21*pm, sn...@trippin.com wrote:
> On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 08:29:07 -0700 (PDT), "Road Glidin' Don"
>
> <d.lan...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >On Oct 21, 10:56*am, Ryder Rick <rickb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >> Heck, I wonder if the pulley din't fall off?!
>
> >Looks like we have a winner.
>
> Cool beans Don! *This time put it back together th' right way. *

Heh, heh. Hey, I'm getting used to it. Before last night my friends
were accusing me of not putting oil in the tranny!

But I have never... let me repeat, NEVER done anything with that
nut!!!

And I can prove it too. I don't even have a socket or wrench that
large! (it's even bigger than the 1 1/2" main compensating sprocket
nut). That sucker must be something like 1 3/4".

Road Glidin' Don wrote:
> On Oct 23, 11:26 am, Ryder Rick <rickb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Road Glidin' Don wrote:
>>> On Oct 21, 10:56 am, Ryder Rick <rickb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Heck, I wonder if the pulley din't fall off?!
>>> Looks like we have a winner.
>>> Morning, Rick. Last night I pulled off the inner primary, got a look
>>> at the sprocket on the outside of the transmission (the one the belt
>>> goes around) and... well, look-ee here... the splines on the
>>> sprocket are completely worn off and the big nut that holds it on has
>>> spun loose (just resting loosely on the main shaft).
>>> So, like you conjectured, it's the sprocket and there's nothing wrong
>>> with the transmission! Yah!
>>> The noises that were emanating from that area were due to the sprocket
>>> riding over the splines on the main shaft as the shaft spun.
>>> The night before last, with the inner primary still on, I was trying
>>> to determine if your suspicion was correct by getting a pry bar in
>>> there to see if the sprocket would wiggle. It seemed rock solid, so I
>>> had given up hope on that being the cause.
>>> Kinda funny because, I had quickly removed the inner primary and gone
>>> to the other side of the bike to help my father get the transmission
>>> top-cover off, so I didn't notice the sprocket's condition right away
>>> (my father's a former auto mechanic, so I asked him to come to give me
>>> his opinion on the shape of the gears). So we're standing there,
>>> looking in there and those gears look perfectly fine... There's still
>>> tranny oil in it too. Huh?
>>> Then we noticed the sprocket.
>>> Looking at the main shaft seal on the primary, it's been badly
>>> deformed - cupped outward along the shaft. The seal on the
>>> transmission looks okay though, so I'm thinking I should just leave
>>> it. The sprocket had been grinding against the inside of the primary
>>> a bit, creating some shavings.
>>> I was concerned about the fact that the tranny had lost some fluid
>>> while on the side-stand after the bike broke down but, if I'm correct,
>>> I think that can be blamed on the sprocket not being firmly pressed
>>> against the sleeve that comes out of the tranny (around the main
>>> shaft). The main shaft has splines and seems to me that, without the
>>> sprocket firmly pressed against the sleeve, fluid could escape along
>>> the spline grooves.
>>> As for the sprocket itself and the fact the nut holding it on was off,
>>> I'm guessing that once the splines inside the sprocket wore
>>> sufficiently for it to spin around the splines on the main shaft, it
>>> simply spun the nut off (there's a plate bolted around the nut to
>>> prevent it from loosening under normal circumstances).
>>> Fortunately, the splines on the main shaft coming out of the
>>> transmission look just fine - all the 'give' having come from the
>>> softer sprocket.
>>> So this is good news! Thanks for all the help, guys. Another round
>>> of drinks for everyone!
>> Now the big question is how did the nut fall off?
>> A 98 should have a notched lock ring around the nut with (2) 1/4" bolts
>> holding it to the sprocket!
>
> Yep, that's what I was wondering too, Rick. And, since I bought the
> bike new and do my own wrenching and have never touched that nut, it
> must be on the way it was put on in the factory.
>
> My suspicion is that the retaining, notched lock ring isn't designed
> to hold, once the splines stop engaging the shaft. That nut - which
> is a reverse thread - could be spun off as a result. That's the only
> explanation I can think of, since it appears impossible for it to
> loosen any other way.
>
> It failed when I shifted from first to second gear. As I let out the
> clutch and second engaged, the force on the sprocket would have been
> in a clock-wise direction (belt pulling at top of sprocket, trying to
> turn it that way), right?
>
> Now suppose the sprocket has no splines at that time (having just lost
> their last bit of traction). Then that clockwise twist would not be
> resisted by the splines on the main shaft anymore. Instead, it would
> be applied to the only thing left - that nut. And, with that nut
> being a left-hand thread, a clockwise twist would unloosen it -
> perhaps with more force than the notched ring is designed to
> withstand, since there should be splines to help in resisting that
> twisting force.
>
> The notched ring isn't very thick. From the looks of the wear
> underneath the pointy ends of the nut, it seems it just sprung a bit
> to ride over top of the notched lock ring.
>

From this it sounds like the nut was not tight and the sprocket worked
back and forth till the splines gave up. Maybe it's been leakin a little
for a long time tryin to give you a clue? <grin>

kickstart wrote:
> it turned out to be the transmission sprocket.
>> Should be an easy fix (much cheaper too!)
>>
>
>
>
> sooooooo you need a pulley, 32 or 34 tooth ?
> I have a couple laying around
>
> kickstart

Ya think a 34/65 will be too tall for stock five speed gears ? Since I
gotta pull the primary soon to replace a shifter arm ...
--
Snag
'90 Ultra "Strider"
'39 WLDD "Popcycle"
Buncha cars and a truck

Terry Coombs wrote:
> kickstart wrote:
>> it turned out to be the transmission sprocket.
>>> Should be an easy fix (much cheaper too!)
>>>
>>
>>
>> sooooooo you need a pulley, 32 or 34 tooth ?
>> I have a couple laying around
>>
>> kickstart
>
> Ya think a 34/65 will be too tall for stock five speed gears ? Since I
> gotta pull the primary soon to replace a shifter arm ...

I wouldn't, 'specially ona bagger.

65/34 = 2.75 Ratio

stock

70/32 = 3.37

That'd be like adding 6th gear, but taking out 1st and throwing it away.
You'd be like starting out in second gear. Fine if'n yer pointed down hill.

My math is shakey but that looks like about a 20% reduction in torque
multiplication.

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 23:17:37 GMT, Ryder Rick <rickb794@gmail.com>
wrote:

>Road Glidin' Don wrote:
>> On Oct 23, 11:26 am, Ryder Rick <rickb...@gmail.com> wrote:

>>> Now the big question is how did the nut fall off?
>>> A 98 should have a notched lock ring around the nut with (2) 1/4" bolts
>>> holding it to the sprocket!
>>
>> Yep, that's what I was wondering too, Rick. And, since I bought the
>> bike new and do my own wrenching and have never touched that nut, it
>> must be on the way it was put on in the factory.
>>
>> My suspicion is that the retaining, notched lock ring isn't designed
>> to hold, once the splines stop engaging the shaft. That nut - which
>> is a reverse thread - could be spun off as a result. That's the only
>> explanation I can think of, since it appears impossible for it to
>> loosen any other way.
>>
>> It failed when I shifted from first to second gear. As I let out the
>> clutch and second engaged, the force on the sprocket would have been
>> in a clock-wise direction (belt pulling at top of sprocket, trying to
>> turn it that way), right?
>>
>> Now suppose the sprocket has no splines at that time (having just lost
>> their last bit of traction). Then that clockwise twist would not be
>> resisted by the splines on the main shaft anymore. Instead, it would
>> be applied to the only thing left - that nut. And, with that nut
>> being a left-hand thread, a clockwise twist would unloosen it -
>> perhaps with more force than the notched ring is designed to
>> withstand, since there should be splines to help in resisting that
>> twisting force.
>>
>> The notched ring isn't very thick. From the looks of the wear
>> underneath the pointy ends of the nut, it seems it just sprung a bit
>> to ride over top of the notched lock ring.
>>
>
> From this it sounds like the nut was not tight and the sprocket worked
>back and forth till the splines gave up. Maybe it's been leakin a little
>for a long time tryin to give you a clue? <grin>

Well, it can be easy to confuse a slight leak out the tranny seal as
being a leak from the primary gasket alright.

From what I'm told, when the sprocket splines start to wear out, they
introduce some play on the shaft that might contribute to the nut
hopping outside the retainer too.

Another thing I'm thinking of doing is replacing the seal, quad ring
and sleeve coming out of the transmission, just to be on the safe
side. I'm up to my elbows in there now anyway.

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 10:05:25 -0700 (PDT), kickstart
<kickstart257@gmail.com> wrote:

> it turned out to be the transmission sprocket.
>> Should be an easy fix (much cheaper too!)
>>
>sooooooo you need a pulley, 32 or 34 tooth ?
>I have a couple laying around

I just confirmed that mine's a 32 tooth, Kickstart (Part # 40250-94).
I'd sure appreciate it - especially if the sprocket is new or near
new.

Although the spline on the shaft looks okay, I think I should be
careful about not encouraging more wear by putting on a sprocket that
doesn't fit real tight.

Road Glidin' Don wrote:

> Another thing I'm thinking of doing is replacing the seal, quad ring
> and sleeve coming out of the transmission, just to be on the safe
> side. I'm up to my elbows in there now anyway.
>

Absolutely replace those seals and the one on the inner primary as well.
I always do that whenever I have things torn down to that degree even
if nothing's leaking just because it's such a pain in the ass to get in
there for just a seal. And it's cheap to do while you're there.
--
spunky hussein ThisIsAPositiveSideOfTheWhileI'mInThereSyndrome tuna

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 10:05:25 -0700 (PDT), kickstart
<kickstart257@gmail.com> wrote:

> it turned out to be the transmission sprocket.
>> Should be an easy fix (much cheaper too!)
>>
>sooooooo you need a pulley, 32 or 34 tooth ?
>I have a couple laying around

Hi again, Kickstart. Just wanted to let you know I picked up a
pulley, just today at a swap meet.

Prior to going, I had checked the dealership and their price was
$174.00 (Cdn). When I found one at the swap for $20.00, the deal was
done!

> Hi again, Kickstart. *Just wanted to let you know I picked up a
> pulley, just today at a swap meet.
>
> Prior to going, I had checked the dealership and their price was
> $174.00 (Cdn). *When I found one at the swap for $20.00, the deal was
> done!

Glad you got one My sserver hasn't gotten any messages since friday
(??????????) don't have any idea why not,
I have also made some posts that never went through, maybe this one
will
I also have the socket to put that nut on
or you can make on by cutting a socket and legnthing it with a piece
of pipe

kickstart

On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 16:52:53 -0700 (PDT), kickstart
<kickstart257@gmail.com> wrote:

>> Hi again, Kickstart. *Just wanted to let you know I picked up a
>> pulley, just today at a swap meet.
>>
>> Prior to going, I had checked the dealership and their price was
>> $174.00 (Cdn). *When I found one at the swap for $20.00, the deal was
>> done!
>
>Glad you got one My sserver hasn't gotten any messages since friday
>(??????????) don't have any idea why not,
>I have also made some posts that never went through, maybe this one
>will

I have that happen sometimes too. Eventually, I learned to switch to
Google news when that happens.

>I also have the socket to put that nut on
>or you can make on by cutting a socket and legnthing it with a piece
>of pipe

Thanks for the idea. That nut requires one mighty big, friggin'
socket!

Actually, I'm even more perplexed about how I'm gonna lock the
sprocket from turning as I tighten that nut (reverse thread, I
noticed). I think it requires around 80 ft-lbs...

I suppose with the belt around both sprockets and the rear wheel
locked might do the trick, but the belt being a bit springy... Ah, I
suppose it should work okay, huh?

On Oct 28, 12:45*am, langkd_NO_S...@shaw.ca (Road Glidin' Don) wrote:
> On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 16:52:53 -0700 (PDT), kickstart
>
> <kickstart...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> Hi again, Kickstart. *Just wanted to let you know I picked up a
> >> pulley, just today at a swap meet.
>
> >> Prior to going, I had checked the dealership and their price was
> >> $174.00 (Cdn). *When I found one at the swap for $20.00, the deal was
> >> done!
>
> >Glad you got one My sserver hasn't gotten any messages since friday
> >(??????????) don't have any idea why not,
> >I have also made some posts that never went through, maybe this one
> >will
>
> I have that happen sometimes too. *Eventually, I learned to switch to
> Google news when that happens.
>
> >I also have the socket to put that nut on
> >or you can make on by cutting a socket and legnthing it with a piece
> >of pipe
>
> Thanks for the idea. *That nut requires one mighty big, friggin'
> socket!
>
> Actually, I'm even more perplexed about how I'm gonna lock the
> sprocket from turning as I tighten that nut (reverse thread, I
> noticed). *I think it requires around 80 ft-lbs... *
>
> I suppose with the belt around both sprockets and the rear wheel
> locked might do the trick, but the belt being a bit springy... *Ah, I
> suppose it should work okay, huh?

they make a stepped rubber block that wedges in the balt and sprocket
sells for about $20
I use and impact. you can make a wood wedge and torgue wrench

kickstart

On Tue, 28 Oct 2008 08:52:07 -0700 (PDT), kickstart
<kickstart257@gmail.com> wrote:

>they make a stepped rubber block that wedges in the balt and sprocket
>sells for about $20

I just had an idea: Maybe I can fashion one of those blocks out of an
old hockey puck.

No one can say I'm not a true blue Canadian...

On Oct 29, 12:30*am, langkd_NO_S...@shaw.ca (Road Glidin' Don) wrote:
> On Tue, 28 Oct 2008 08:52:07 -0700 (PDT), kickstart
>
> <kickstart...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >they *make a stepped rubber block that wedges in the balt and sprocket
> >sells for about $20
>
> I just had an idea: *Maybe I can fashion one of those blocks out of an
> old hockey puck.
>
> No one can say I'm not a true blue Canadian...

damn good idea - you could make 2 from 1 puck
entrepeneur or canadian ?

> >or you can make on by cutting a socket and legnthing it with a piece
> >of pipe
>
> Thanks for the idea. *That nut requires one mighty big, friggin'
> socket!
>
> Actually, I'm even more perplexed about how I'm gonna lock the
> sprocket from turning as I tighten that nut (reverse thread, I
> noticed). *I think it requires around 80 ft-lbs... *
>
> I suppose with the belt around both sprockets and the rear wheel
> locked might do the trick, but the belt being a bit springy... *Ah, I
> suppose it should work okay, huh?

http://s463.photobucket.com/albums/q...ightsocket.jpg

socket 1-7/8"

On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 18:23:17 -0700 (PDT), kickstart
<kickstart257@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>> >or you can make on by cutting a socket and legnthing it with a piece
>> >of pipe
>>
>> Thanks for the idea. *That nut requires one mighty big, friggin'
>> socket!
>>
>> Actually, I'm even more perplexed about how I'm gonna lock the
>> sprocket from turning as I tighten that nut (reverse thread, I
>> noticed). *I think it requires around 80 ft-lbs... *
>>
>> I suppose with the belt around both sprockets and the rear wheel
>> locked might do the trick, but the belt being a bit springy... *Ah, I
>> suppose it should work okay, huh?
>
>http://s463.photobucket.com/albums/q...ightsocket.jpg
>
>socket 1-7/8"

Cool! Thanks.

Road Glidin' Don wrote:
> On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 18:23:17 -0700 (PDT), kickstart
> <kickstart257@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>>> or you can make on by cutting a socket and legnthing it with a piece
>>>> of pipe
>>> Thanks for the idea. That nut requires one mighty big, friggin'
>>> socket!
>>>
>>> Actually, I'm even more perplexed about how I'm gonna lock the
>>> sprocket from turning as I tighten that nut (reverse thread, I
>>> noticed). I think it requires around 80 ft-lbs...
>>>
>>> I suppose with the belt around both sprockets and the rear wheel
>>> locked might do the trick, but the belt being a bit springy... Ah, I
>>> suppose it should work okay, huh?
>> http://s463.photobucket.com/albums/q...ightsocket.jpg
>>
>> socket 1-7/8"
>
> Cool! Thanks.
>

Hey! That looks just like mine!

On Oct 29, 10:57*pm, Ryder Rick <rickb...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Road Glidin' Don wrote:
> > On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 18:23:17 -0700 (PDT), kickstart
> > <kickstart...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>>> or you can make on by cutting a socket and legnthing it with a piece
> >>>> of pipe
> >>> Thanks for the idea. *That nut requires one mighty big, friggin'
> >>> socket!
>
> >>> Actually, I'm even more perplexed about how I'm gonna lock the
> >>> sprocket from turning as I tighten that nut (reverse thread, I
> >>> noticed). *I think it requires around 80 ft-lbs... *
>
> >>> I suppose with the belt around both sprockets and the rear wheel
> >>> locked might do the trick, but the belt being a bit springy... *Ah,I
> >>> suppose it should work okay, huh?
> >>http://s463.photobucket.com/albums/q...action=view&cu....
>
> >> socket 1-7/8"
>
> > Cool! *Thanks.
>
> Hey! That looks just like mine!

Better check. It might be gone.

Say, while we're here anyway, there's something I've been wondering
about that you guys might have experience with it.

It's my clutch. The lever's friction zone - the point in the hand
lever's travel where the clutch goes from engaging to disengaging -
seems to be moving further and further out on my Road Glide. Soon it
appears the lever will be completely released and the clutch will slip
under load.

I've made adjustments at the clutch and cable to no significant
avail. At first I thought maybe that's caused by the friction plates
thinning out - perhaps not be out of the realm of possibility on a
bike with 120K miles. But I was just measuring the thicknesses of the
friction plates last night and they're still well within spec....

So I'm thinking now that this is actually caused by the clutch cable
having stretched over time. Sounds reasonable? The adjuster is so
rusted that I'm thinking of replacing it this winter anyway.

Grab another round on me.

"Road Glidin' Don" <d.langkd@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:bc59b216-7682-4de6-8b25-75fc56bba3e6@v22g2000pro.googlegroups.com...
>It's my clutch. The lever's friction zone - the point in the hand
>lever's travel where the clutch goes from engaging to disengaging -
>seems to be moving further and further out on my Road Glide. Soon it
>appears the lever will be completely released and the clutch will slip
>under load.

>I've made adjustments at the clutch and cable to no significant
>avail. At first I thought maybe that's caused by the friction plates
>thinning out - perhaps not be out of the realm of possibility on a
>bike with 120K miles. But I was just measuring the thicknesses of the
>friction plates last night and they're still well within spec....

>So I'm thinking now that this is actually caused by the clutch cable
>having stretched over time. Sounds reasonable? The adjuster is so
>rusted that I'm thinking of replacing it this winter anyway.

If it is that stretched, you are approaching the most dangerous of
situations. The time when the cable is due to brake at any moment. The
reason this is so scary really depends on whether you keep your bike in
gear at a light or always find neutral. If you keep it in gear and rely upon
your clutch cable to keep you out of fast moving crosstraffic, well you
can probably imagine what happens if the cable gives out. On an average
bike, the motor probably stalls after the bike lunges forward a foot or so.
Probably no problem except maybe to a pedestrian crossing in front of you.
However if your motor idles high, your still warming it up with higher than
usual
revs or your on a downhill slope, you may launch out into that fast moving
crosstraffic. Unless you have lightning fast reflexes, you could find
yourself
in a serious situation. Cables are cheap enough. Try a new one out and see
if that fixes it or if its the clutch push rod wearing out on you or some
other
trickiness including the clutch hub nut backing out on you.

Harold Gailey wrote:

> If it is that stretched, you are approaching the most dangerous of
> situations. The time when the cable is due to brake at any moment. The
> reason this is so scary really depends on whether you keep your bike in
> gear at a light or always find neutral. If you keep it in gear and rely upon
> your clutch cable to keep you out of fast moving crosstraffic, well you
> can probably imagine what happens if the cable gives out. On an average
> bike, the motor probably stalls after the bike lunges forward a foot or so.
> Probably no problem except maybe to a pedestrian crossing in front of you.
> However if your motor idles high, your still warming it up with higher than
> usual
> revs or your on a downhill slope, you may launch out into that fast moving
> crosstraffic. Unless you have lightning fast reflexes, you could find
> yourself
> in a serious situation. Cables are cheap enough. Try a new one out and see
> if that fixes it or if its the clutch push rod wearing out on you or some
> other
> trickiness including the clutch hub nut backing out on you.
>
You aren't in the habit of keeping your brakes on at a stoplight? When
I'm stopped at a light or other intersection my foot is always on the
rear brake, both to keep me from moving and to provide a brighter light
to the idiot coming up behind me.

Fins BS#221

"DM" <fins@nospam.bs221.com> wrote in message
news:wsednZZ1pdt9b5TUnZ2dnUVZ_gydnZ2d@giganews.com ...
> You aren't in the habit of keeping your brakes on at a stoplight? When I'm
> stopped at a light or other intersection my foot is always on the rear
> brake, both to keep me from moving and to provide a brighter light to the
> idiot coming up behind me.
>
> Fins BS#221

If I see an idiot approach I will grab a handfull of brake to illuminate my
brake light. Otherwise I am often covered by the traffic I am usually in
so no need for brake light illumination. Also, here in Houston there are
no hills so brakes aren't required to hold a position. Only during stormy
weather when the wind is blowing strong am I likely to have brakes
applied at a light. Also with the seat height (non-stock) of my FXDX being
at the limit of my legs' reach I'm less likely to have a foot on the brake
pedal unless absolutely necessary while at a stop. On the FX it's different
since it sits so much lower.

On Oct 30, 11:07*am, "Harold Gailey" <hgai...@comcast.net> wrote:
> "Road Glidin' Don" <d.lan...@gmail.com> wrote in messagenews:bc59b216-7682-4de6-8b25-75fc56bba3e6@v22g2000pro.googlegroups.com...
>
> >It's my clutch. *The lever's friction zone - the point in the hand
> >lever's travel where the clutch goes from engaging to disengaging -
> >seems to be moving further and further out on my Road Glide. *Soon it
> >appears the lever will be completely released and the clutch will slip
> >under load.
> >I've made adjustments at the clutch and cable to no significant
> >avail. *At first I thought maybe that's caused by the friction plates
> >thinning out - perhaps not be out of the realm of possibility on a
> >bike with 120K miles. *But I was just measuring the thicknesses of the
> >friction plates last night and they're still well within spec....
> >So I'm thinking now that this is actually caused by the clutch cable
> >having stretched over time. *Sounds reasonable? *The adjuster is so
> >rusted that I'm thinking of replacing it this winter anyway.
>
> If it is that stretched, you are approaching the most dangerous of
> situations. The time when the cable is due to brake at any moment. The
> reason this is so scary really depends on whether you keep your bike in
> gear at a light or always find neutral. If you keep it in gear and rely upon
> your clutch cable to keep you out of fast moving crosstraffic, well you
> can probably imagine what happens if the cable gives out. On an average
> bike, the motor probably stalls after the bike lunges forward a foot or so.
> Probably no problem except maybe to a pedestrian crossing in front of you..
> However if your motor idles high, your still warming it up with higher than
> usual
> revs or your on a downhill slope, you may launch out into that fast moving
> crosstraffic. Unless you have lightning fast reflexes, you could find
> yourself
> in a serious situation. Cables are cheap enough. Try a new one out and see
> if that fixes it or if its the clutch push rod wearing out on you or some
> other
> trickiness including the clutch hub nut backing out on you.

Sounds like very good advice. Thanks Harold.