Set 'em up Shirley!

The job is done, everything works, but a couple of observations on what
is definitely not a very difficult job (but could turn into one). Much
of this is old hat to many of you, but this was the first time I did
this job on an Ultra Classic. Some of these notes may come in handy in
the future to somebody else.

When I replace brake pads I usually do it with the wheels still on the
bike. The usual: loosen the master cylinder cap, pull the caliper pins a
bit, install the inside pad, reseat the pins to get the inside pad into
proper position, pull the pins enough to then replace the outside pad. YMMV

This was the first time I decided to replace the pads with the wheels
removed. Ok, I think from now on I'll replace them with the wheels still
on the bike. This was on the rear of the Ultra Classic, and trying to
lift the wheel into the proper position to insert the axle/install
spacers/etc at the same time as trying to spread the new pads apart was
just a bit too much. The new pads didn't want to stay against the sides
of the calipers, instead trying to form themselves into a bastard
V-shape. No amount of jimmying with a putty knife was going to get those
pads apart to let the rotor slide in. There's not enough room to mount
the wheel then put the caliper over the rotor so it all needs to pretty
much come together at once. End result: take at least one (if not both)
of the pads out, mount the wheel, then put the pads in the caliper.
There are holes in the top of the caliper so you can kind of see what
the pad position is. Reminder to self: buy a 12-pt 1/4 inch socket for
the caliper pins. The box-end 12 pt wrench just takes too damn long.

The front wheel, I was actually able to get both rotors into the
calipers with the new pads flopping around. Not easy, but somehow I
managed to get the wheel mounted. There is a bit more play room with the
calipers, you can get the calipers positioned between the rotor and
fender enough to slide the axle in, then play with the pads to get the
calipers over the rotors. One note about the service manual: It makes it
seem as if you can remove the calipers completely off the rotor and let
them lay aside while you remove the wheel. I found I didn't have any
room at all to get them off. The size of the front fender limits how
much play you have in moving the calipers around. I knew this, but it
bears mentioning to anybody that hasn't done this before: You have to
remove at least one of the calipers in order to remove the wheel,
otherwise the tire binds between the calipers and you can't get the
wheel off. The manual says to take both off, but just one is enough.

A couple of notes on removing the rear wheel. This was my first time
taking it off the Ultra, I've done it before on the dyna, softail and
sporties. The rear uses an e-clip, not a cotter pin. I like it, to me
it's easier than the cotter pin and doesn't need replacing. The part
that pissed me off was finding a wrench big enough for the axle nut.
I've got a fairly extensive set of normal tools but nothing big enough
for that nut except a short-handled wide mouth crescent wrench. I had to
run over to my buddy Pete's shop and borrow his 1-7/16" open-end wrench.
Talking to my mech/tire guy (Paul) later I found that it actually takes
a 36mm. This size is different from the '02 Heritage and the sporties.
This was on my '07, YMMV depending on year of bike. Paul says he paid
125 bucks for a 36mm Snap-On wrench to do the job with, I have a wrench
on order for the future. 20 bucks delivered. Not a Snap-On, but
hopefully good enough to use once-twice a year. Somebody make a comment
here about when they went to that configuration of size/e-clip.

I haven't had a chance yet to really try out the Elite-3s, but Wednesday
I have to go to work in Emerville, and coming out of the Oakland hills
tunnels are some nasty rain grooves that always give me the willies, I'm
actually looking forward to seeing how the bike feels on them with this
new tread pattern. Also, doing a 1700 mile trip this weekend so should
get a bit of a feel for them by the time I get back.

If you stayed with me this long, have another round. Please feel free to
expand on this and add useful info. I already know I'm a dumbshit so
that doesn't need repeating.

Fins BS#221

DM wrote:
> Set 'em up Shirley!
>
> The job is done, everything works,


Thanks, I'll relay all of that to my wrench buddy when he changes mine.

DM <fins@nospam.bs221.com> wrote:
> Set 'em up Shirley!

Music to my wallet!


I don't have much to add, so I'll snip to where I do have soething to
add:


> A couple of notes on removing the rear wheel. This was my first time
> taking it off the Ultra, I've done it before on the dyna, softail and
> sporties. The rear uses an e-clip, not a cotter pin. I like it, to me
> it's easier than the cotter pin and doesn't need replacing. The part
> that pissed me off was finding a wrench big enough for the axle nut.
> I've got a fairly extensive set of normal tools but nothing big enough
> for that nut except a short-handled wide mouth crescent wrench. I had to
> run over to my buddy Pete's shop and borrow his 1-7/16" open-end wrench.
> Talking to my mech/tire guy (Paul) later I found that it actually takes
> a 36mm. This size is different from the '02 Heritage and the sporties.
> This was on my '07, YMMV depending on year of bike. Paul says he paid
> 125 bucks for a 36mm Snap-On wrench to do the job with, I have a wrench
> on order for the future. 20 bucks delivered. Not a Snap-On, but
> hopefully good enough to use once-twice a year. Somebody make a comment
> here about when they went to that configuration of size/e-clip.

I used the wrench that came with the bike in the tool kit. Kinda funky
wrench, and if I was changing tires every day I'd get a socket, but for
every once in a while it will work.

I also removed the right muffler as well as the left, so I could tap the
axle out easier. Made fighting the caliper easier, as well.

Also, don't forget to hit your brakes a few times before you take off.
Nothig like coming to that first stop and having your pedal go to the
floorboard as it takes up the slack you left there.

Not that I would know anything about that.

--
George BS235
owner, rmh VB&G

DM wrote:
> Set 'em up Shirley!
>
> The job is done, everything works, but a couple of observations on what
> is definitely not a very difficult job (but could turn into one). Much
> of this is old hat to many of you, but this was the first time I did
> this job on an Ultra Classic. Some of these notes may come in handy in
> the future to somebody else.
>
> When I replace brake pads I usually do it with the wheels still on the
> bike. The usual: loosen the master cylinder cap, pull the caliper pins a
> bit, install the inside pad, reseat the pins to get the inside pad into
> proper position, pull the pins enough to then replace the outside pad. YMMV
>
> This was the first time I decided to replace the pads with the wheels
> removed. Ok, I think from now on I'll replace them with the wheels still
> on the bike. This was on the rear of the Ultra Classic, and trying to
> lift the wheel into the proper position to insert the axle/install
> spacers/etc at the same time as trying to spread the new pads apart was
> just a bit too much. The new pads didn't want to stay against the sides
> of the calipers, instead trying to form themselves into a bastard
> V-shape. No amount of jimmying with a putty knife was going to get those
> pads apart to let the rotor slide in. There's not enough room to mount
> the wheel then put the caliper over the rotor so it all needs to pretty
> much come together at once. End result: take at least one (if not both)
> of the pads out, mount the wheel, then put the pads in the caliper.
> There are holes in the top of the caliper so you can kind of see what
> the pad position is. Reminder to self: buy a 12-pt 1/4 inch socket for
> the caliper pins. The box-end 12 pt wrench just takes too damn long.
>
> The front wheel, I was actually able to get both rotors into the
> calipers with the new pads flopping around. Not easy, but somehow I
> managed to get the wheel mounted. There is a bit more play room with the
> calipers, you can get the calipers positioned between the rotor and
> fender enough to slide the axle in, then play with the pads to get the
> calipers over the rotors. One note about the service manual: It makes it
> seem as if you can remove the calipers completely off the rotor and let
> them lay aside while you remove the wheel. I found I didn't have any
> room at all to get them off. The size of the front fender limits how
> much play you have in moving the calipers around. I knew this, but it
> bears mentioning to anybody that hasn't done this before: You have to
> remove at least one of the calipers in order to remove the wheel,
> otherwise the tire binds between the calipers and you can't get the
> wheel off. The manual says to take both off, but just one is enough.

I used the jack to raise/lower the bike.....made getting the wheels off a LOT
easier.

>
> A couple of notes on removing the rear wheel. This was my first time
> taking it off the Ultra, I've done it before on the dyna, softail and
> sporties. The rear uses an e-clip, not a cotter pin. I like it, to me
> it's easier than the cotter pin and doesn't need replacing. The part
> that pissed me off was finding a wrench big enough for the axle nut.
> I've got a fairly extensive set of normal tools but nothing big enough
> for that nut except a short-handled wide mouth crescent wrench. I had to
> run over to my buddy Pete's shop and borrow his 1-7/16" open-end wrench.
> Talking to my mech/tire guy (Paul) later I found that it actually takes
> a 36mm. This size is different from the '02 Heritage and the sporties.
> This was on my '07, YMMV depending on year of bike. Paul says he paid
> 125 bucks for a 36mm Snap-On wrench to do the job with, I have a wrench
> on order for the future. 20 bucks delivered. Not a Snap-On, but
> hopefully good enough to use once-twice a year. Somebody make a comment
> here about when they went to that configuration of size/e-clip.

You don't have a set of 3/4 drive sockets going up to 2 1/2"'s???

I thought everyone had that kinda stuff laying around.

Oops...forgot that I spent about 20 years as a mechanic, so probably have an
unusually complete set of toys.....<sfsf>

>
> I haven't had a chance yet to really try out the Elite-3s, but Wednesday
> I have to go to work in Emerville, and coming out of the Oakland hills
> tunnels are some nasty rain grooves that always give me the willies, I'm
> actually looking forward to seeing how the bike feels on them with this
> new tread pattern. Also, doing a 1700 mile trip this weekend so should
> get a bit of a feel for them by the time I get back.

I took mine around the block, haven't had a chance to ride it yet. Saddlebags
are still off it...waiting for it's 20K service before it hits the pavement.

>
> If you stayed with me this long, have another round. Please feel free to
> expand on this and add useful info. I already know I'm a dumbshit so
> that doesn't need repeating.
>
> Fins BS#221


I'll take an ice cold San Miguel, thanks........

Steve Irving wrote:
>
> I used the jack to raise/lower the bike.....made getting the wheels off a LOT
> easier.

Compared to taking them off while on the jiffy stand? Nah, I know what
you mean. My pos jack isn't very precise when it comes to
raising/lowering, I turn the screw just a tiny bit on the bottle and it
wants to slam down to the floor. If I could more carefully control the
rate of descent I'd lower the bike onto the wheels, but for now I just
use wooden blocks to support the wheel while I'm lifting it up.
>
>
> You don't have a set of 3/4 drive sockets going up to 2 1/2"'s???
>
> I thought everyone had that kinda stuff laying around.

There doesn't seem to be room to get a socket over that axle nut with
the rear shock there, plus the handle needs to be closer to the wheel so
it can hang towards the floor where I can grip it and get the leverage I
need to loosen the nut. Socket wrench sticks out to far. Long extensions
cause me to lose the torque and control I want.

George, with the V&H 2-1s I have plenty of room to work around the exhaust.

Fins BS#221

DM wrote:

>
> There doesn't seem to be room to get a socket over that axle nut with
> the rear shock there, plus the handle needs to be closer to the wheel so
> it can hang towards the floor where I can grip it and get the leverage I
> need to loosen the nut. Socket wrench sticks out to far. Long extensions
> cause me to lose the torque and control I want.

So...how do you get the proper torque on the axle nut when going back together???

Steve Irving wrote:
> DM wrote:
>
>> There doesn't seem to be room to get a socket over that axle nut with
>> the rear shock there, plus the handle needs to be closer to the wheel so
>> it can hang towards the floor where I can grip it and get the leverage I
>> need to loosen the nut. Socket wrench sticks out to far. Long extensions
>> cause me to lose the torque and control I want.
>
> So...how do you get the proper torque on the axle nut when going back together???

By feel. I just tighten it and replace the e-clip. I had my arm strength
calibrated at the national laboratories.

Fins BS#221

DM wrote:
> Steve Irving wrote:
>> DM wrote:
>>
>>> There doesn't seem to be room to get a socket over that axle nut with
>>> the rear shock there, plus the handle needs to be closer to the wheel so
>>> it can hang towards the floor where I can grip it and get the leverage I
>>> need to loosen the nut. Socket wrench sticks out to far. Long extensions
>>> cause me to lose the torque and control I want.
>>
>> So...how do you get the proper torque on the axle nut when going back
>> together???
>
> By feel. I just tighten it and replace the e-clip. I had my arm strength
> calibrated at the national laboratories.
>
> Fins BS#221

Internet porn paid off for ya then.

DM wrote:
> Steve Irving wrote:
>> DM wrote:
>>
>>> There doesn't seem to be room to get a socket over that axle nut with
>>> the rear shock there, plus the handle needs to be closer to the wheel so
>>> it can hang towards the floor where I can grip it and get the leverage I
>>> need to loosen the nut. Socket wrench sticks out to far. Long extensions
>>> cause me to lose the torque and control I want.
>>
>> So...how do you get the proper torque on the axle nut when going back
>> together???
>
> By feel. I just tighten it and replace the e-clip. I had my arm strength
> calibrated at the national laboratories.
>
> Fins BS#221

I forgot.....you were a CPO

Steve Irving wrote:
> DM wrote:
>> Steve Irving wrote:
>>> DM wrote:
>>>
>>>> There doesn't seem to be room to get a socket over that axle nut with
>>>> the rear shock there, plus the handle needs to be closer to the wheel so
>>>> it can hang towards the floor where I can grip it and get the leverage I
>>>> need to loosen the nut. Socket wrench sticks out to far. Long extensions
>>>> cause me to lose the torque and control I want.
>>> So...how do you get the proper torque on the axle nut when going back
>>> together???
>> By feel. I just tighten it and replace the e-clip. I had my arm strength
>> calibrated at the national laboratories.
>>
>> Fins BS#221
>
> I forgot.....you were a CPO

You gonna start that 'matey' shit now ain't ya? <g>

Steve Irving <sdirv@nospamqwest.net> wrote:

> So...how do you get the proper torque on the axle nut when going back together???

Tight plus a little more. I figure if the MoCo gave me a wrench to use,
I'd use it. I figger the keeper will keep it from falling off if it
loosens.

"DM" <fins@nospam.bs221.com> wrote

<generous snippage>

> This was the first time I decided to replace the pads with the wheels
> removed. Ok, I think from now on I'll replace them with the wheels still
> on the bike. This was on the rear of the Ultra Classic, and trying to lift
> the wheel into the proper position to insert the axle/install spacers/etc
> at the same time as trying to spread the new pads apart was just a bit too
> much.

You *lift* the wheel??? That's gotta be fun. Once I get the axle out I raise
the lift and raise the bike away from the wheel. Install gets the reverse,
just lower the lift back down to the wheel. Yeah, it's a bit of a pain goin'
back n forth to lower the jack a tad, align the wheel, raise the jack a tad,
realign the wheel, etc, etc.... in order to get everything lined up. Beats
the alternative of growing a 3rd and 4th arm though in order to lift the
wheel, align it, get the caliper just right and slide the axle in while
trying to hold on to the the spacers as well.

>The new pads didn't want to stay against the sides of the calipers, instead
>trying to form themselves into a bastard V-shape. No amount of jimmying
>with a putty knife was going to get those pads apart to let the rotor slide
>in. There's not enough room to mount the wheel then put the caliper over
>the rotor so it all needs to pretty much come together at once. End result:
>take at least one (if not both) of the pads out, mount the wheel, then put
>the pads in the caliper.

Never did have any good results with a putty knife...... I push the pistons
back and spread the pads using the widest blade screwdriver I've got. If yer
careful you can avoid dingin both the pads and the rotor.

> Reminder to self: buy a 12-pt 1/4 inch socket for the caliper pins. The
> box-end 12 pt wrench just takes too damn long.

If you don't already have one a 1/2" to 1/4" adapter is a good thing.
Regardless of how loose you put in the pins they always seemed welded in
next time you try to get 'em out.

>One note about the service manual: It makes it seem as if you can remove
>the calipers completely off the rotor and let them lay aside while you
>remove the wheel. I found I didn't have any room at all to get them off.
>The size of the front fender limits how much play you have in moving the
>calipers around. I knew this, but it bears mentioning to anybody that
>hasn't done this before:

That's one of them goofy things that defies explanation, one of 'em will
slip right out sometimes without even touching the fender and the other one
ya gotta wrestle with and swear there ain't enough room. Then ya walk away
from it for a mental-health break and it frequently slips right out as easy
as the other one with no apologies. :::::shrug::::::: I rank it right up
there with the mystery of the missing sock each laundry day.

> You have to remove at least one of the calipers in order to remove the
> wheel, otherwise the tire binds between the calipers and you can't get the
> wheel off. The manual says to take both off, but just one is enough.

I do both and let 'em hang, gotta wrap a big-assed towel around the calipers
in order to keep 'em from dinging the front fender and lowers.

>The rear uses an e-clip, not a cotter pin. I like it, to me it's easier
>than the cotter pin and doesn't need replacing.

There's a reason the book calls for replacing the clip.... after you spread
it 2 or 3 times taking it off it doesn't return to the original size and
fits pretty loose. Take it from those who know..... loosing a rear axle nut
is *not* a good thing! I picked up a half-dozen clips at the dealer along
with a half dozen brass ferrules that go on the throttle cable ends and a
half dozen of those black screws that go under the fairing. Having 'em in a
drawer ensures you won't need 'em when the dealer's closed. A few extra seat
screws are a good idea as well. Howzcum you always drop shit that disappears
into the vapor on a Sunday?!? Used to also be the chosen day to pour a qt of
oil right through the crankcase cuz you forgot the plug back in the days you
couldn't buy oil on Sundays too. Some kinda Murphy-shit methinks.

>The part that pissed me off was finding a wrench big enough for the axle
>nut. I've got a fairly extensive set of normal tools but nothing big enough
>for that nut except a short-handled wide mouth crescent wrench. I had to
>run over to my buddy Pete's shop and borrow his 1-7/16" open-end wrench.
>Talking to my mech/tire guy (Paul) later I found that it actually takes a
>36mm. This size is different from the '02 Heritage and the sporties. This
>was on my '07, YMMV depending on year of bike. Paul says he paid 125 bucks
>for a 36mm Snap-On wrench to do the job with, I have a wrench on order for
>the future. 20 bucks delivered. Not a Snap-On, but hopefully good enough to
>use once-twice a year. Somebody make a comment here about when they went to
>that configuration of size/e-clip.

Cuz somebody wanted to sell new tools. I found some 36mm sockets online.
Seems that's the same size as Buell, VW and BMW axle nuts, those shops
peddle 'em cheap, around 10 bux delivered. I got one from Seattle Cycle and
another on eBay thinking I'd need one for each end. Not. Never used 'em.
Once you get the nut somewhat snug with some weight on the wheel you can put
100 lbs on it without the axle turning. YMMV.

I stuck the Lyndalls in a month ago and then swapped the rear wheel a couple
weeks later. Went about as smooth as it coulda. First time I pulled the rear
axle on the new-type setup I wrestled with the mufflers cuz the good book
sez you have to. Not! H-D has a cool tool that's similar to the axle wrench
that comes in the bagger's tool kit only it's longer and has a 1/2" square
hole in the opposite end for a flex handle or torque wrench. If you keep the
wrench square to the adapter yer s'posed to get accurate torque readings.
This allows you to torque without using a socket and leave the right muffler
alone. The good book shows it in Appendix A, Pg A-15, Part # HD-47925, Axle
Nut Torque Adapter. No idea what they cost but whatever it is, it's probably
worth it.

On the left side I disconnect the muffler mounts under the saddlebag and
raise/lower the lift until the axle clears the bottom of the bag support
rail. Then I ever-so-slightly put enough downward pressure on the muffler
that the 36mm hex end will push through. Draping a towel over the muffler so
the axle can slide across the top of the muffler without gouging the chrome
is the way to go. Don't ask how I know this.....

Another thing I learned, scrub the Anti-Sieze offa yer mitts before handling
the rear tire. If you don't them fingerprints will be on there for 100 years
and not even Boraxo will remove 'em.

> I haven't had a chance yet to really try out the Elite-3s, but Wednesday I
> have to go to work in Emerville, and coming out of the Oakland hills
> tunnels are some nasty rain grooves that always give me the willies, I'm
> actually looking forward to seeing how the bike feels on them with this
> new tread pattern. Also, doing a 1700 mile trip this weekend so should get
> a bit of a feel for them by the time I get back.

I think you'll like 'em, haven't seen anyone that doesn't yet.

I swapped the rear on that had 5300 miles on it that I yanked last year
before going to Snarl's. Turns out I coulda left it on and had some miles to
spare when I got back but I hadn't worn one of 'em out yet and didn't know
what to expect mileage-wise. I now know I can get 13k out of one easy.....
prolly woulda gone over 14k before the wear bars showed but I was sick of
riding on a square tire. Murphy sez had I left that tire on I woulda been
dumpster-diving somewhere around Salina, KS looking for rubber on a Sunday
with a white racing stripe showing down the middle of the rear tire. Not
that anybody's ever done that before or anything.........

112

"DM" <fins@nospam.bs221.com> wrote

>My pos jack isn't very precise when it comes to raising/lowering, I turn
>the screw just a tiny bit on the bottle and it wants to slam down to the
>floor. If I could more carefully control the rate of descent I'd lower the
>bike onto the wheels, but for now I just use wooden blocks to support the
>wheel while I'm lifting it up.

Ask Santa to bring you one a them H-D you-crank-it lifts, beats any kinda
bottle jack hands down. Wide footprint and stable... I use a tie-down
between the jugs wrapped around the lift to hold it snug to the bike. You
can get pretty aggressive yankin' things around to line up wheels n axles
without ending up with a motorcycle sittin' on top of yer gourd. Very
precise and worth every dollar I didn't spend on it :-) Thanks Santa!

112

On Mon, 11 Aug 2008 15:08:08 -0400, "TL Mitchell"
<tlmitchell99@earthlink.net> wrote:

>"DM" <fins@nospam.bs221.com> wrote
>
><generous snippage>
>
>> This was the first time I decided to replace the pads with the wheels
>> removed. Ok, I think from now on I'll replace them with the wheels still
>> on the bike. This was on the rear of the Ultra Classic, and trying to lift
>> the wheel into the proper position to insert the axle/install spacers/etc
>> at the same time as trying to spread the new pads apart was just a bit too
>> much.
>
>You *lift* the wheel??? That's gotta be fun. Once I get the axle out I raise
>the lift and raise the bike away from the wheel. Install gets the reverse,
>just lower the lift back down to the wheel. Yeah, it's a bit of a pain goin'
>back n forth to lower the jack a tad, align the wheel, raise the jack a tad,
>realign the wheel, etc, etc.... in order to get everything lined up. Beats
>the alternative of growing a 3rd and 4th arm though in order to lift the
>wheel, align it, get the caliper just right and slide the axle in while
>trying to hold on to the the spacers as well.

On that note, these may be kinda hard to find, but if ya stumble
across one, buy it. Electric over hydraulic lift. Goes up/down
smooth as silk. With a push of a button you can line shit like this
up *exactly*. No fuss, no mess, no screwdrivers thrown into th'
walls. Don't ask.

Plus ya don't need a fuckin' air compressor. I think Handy makes one,
at least they used to. Mine was from some industrial plant that was
shuttin' down... dunno what it was used for. I think I paid $20 for
it. It'll pick up th' front end of an El Camino <g>.

Snarl

snarl@trippin.com wrote:

> On that note, these may be kinda hard to find, but if ya stumble
> across one, buy it. Electric over hydraulic lift. Goes up/down
> smooth as silk. With a push of a button you can line shit like this

The lift I have is operated by a crank. I do the same thing, lower the
bike to the wheel until the holes line up. Then I can slip the axel back
in. I'm not strong enough to lift the wheel up into there.

> up *exactly*. No fuss, no mess, no screwdrivers thrown into th'
> walls. Don't ask.

I save the screwdriver throwing for when I replace that FUCKING TRIM
RING around the headlight.

--
Donna A.
Wench #17/Bitch #17/BS #26/AH#107/SLOB #9
'95 FLHTCUI Fuel Injected 30th Anniversary Electraglide "Fueley"
'66 H-D Bobcat "Baby Blue"--Harley Hummer Club Member #1066
http://spoiled-brat.com

TL Mitchell wrote:
> "DM" <fins@nospam.bs221.com> wrote
>
>> My pos jack isn't very precise when it comes to raising/lowering, I turn
>> the screw just a tiny bit on the bottle and it wants to slam down to the
>> floor. If I could more carefully control the rate of descent I'd lower the
>> bike onto the wheels, but for now I just use wooden blocks to support the
>> wheel while I'm lifting it up.
>
> Ask Santa to bring you one a them H-D you-crank-it lifts, beats any kinda
> bottle jack hands down. Wide footprint and stable... I use a tie-down
> between the jugs wrapped around the lift to hold it snug to the bike. You
> can get pretty aggressive yankin' things around to line up wheels n axles
> without ending up with a motorcycle sittin' on top of yer gourd. Very
> precise and worth every dollar I didn't spend on it :-) Thanks Santa!

That's what I've got. I love it. Even got it on sale a buncha years ago.

--
Donna A.
Wench #17/Bitch #17/BS #26/AH#107/SLOB #9
'95 FLHTCUI Fuel Injected 30th Anniversary Electraglide "Fueley"
'66 H-D Bobcat "Baby Blue"--Harley Hummer Club Member #1066
http://spoiled-brat.com

George Pollard wrote:
> Steve Irving <sdirv@nospamqwest.net> wrote:
>
>> So...how do you get the proper torque on the axle nut when going back together???
>
> Tight plus a little more. I figure if the MoCo gave me a wrench to use,
> I'd use it. I figger the keeper will keep it from falling off if it
> loosens.

And THAT's how Harleys earned a rep for leaking oil all over the landscape.....

TL Mitchell wrote:

> Ask Santa to bring you one a them H-D you-crank-it lifts,

this? <watch that line wrap folks>

http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US

Al wrote:
> TL Mitchell wrote:
>
>> Ask Santa to bring you one a them H-D you-crank-it lifts,
>
> this? <watch that line wrap folks>
>
> http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US

That's what I've got. And you can leave it up like that for a week and
it doesn't move at all.

--
Donna A.
Wench #17/Bitch #17/BS #26/AH#107/SLOB #9
'95 FLHTCUI Fuel Injected 30th Anniversary Electraglide "Fueley"
'66 H-D Bobcat "Baby Blue"--Harley Hummer Club Member #1066
http://spoiled-brat.com

"Donna A." <flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:48a0972b$1@127.0.0.1...

> I save the screwdriver throwing for when I replace that FUCKING TRIM
> RING around the headlight.

Hit a lot of birds, do you?

<ducking and running>

Steve Irving <sdirv@nospamqwest.net> wrote:
>>
>> Tight plus a little more. I figure if the MoCo gave me a wrench to use,
>> I'd use it. I figger the keeper will keep it from falling off if it
>> loosens.

> And THAT's how Harleys earned a rep for leaking oil all over the landscape.....

My rear axle is going to leak oil?

I do have a bike with oil in the rear axle, do you you want it?

--
George BS235
Owner, rmh VB&G

Donna A. wrote:
> Al wrote:
>> TL Mitchell wrote:
>>
>>> Ask Santa to bring you one a them H-D you-crank-it lifts,
>>
>> this? <watch that line wrap folks>
>>
>> http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
>>
>
> That's what I've got. And you can leave it up like that for a week and
> it doesn't move at all.
>

Hmm. Free shipping and no tax to CA.
http://www.latus-harley-davidson.com...rvice-Lift.htm

Donna A. wrote:
> snarl@trippin.com wrote:
>
>> On that note, these may be kinda hard to find, but if ya stumble
>> across one, buy it. Electric over hydraulic lift. Goes up/down
>> smooth as silk. With a push of a button you can line shit like this
>
> The lift I have is operated by a crank. I do the same thing, lower the
> bike to the wheel until the holes line up. Then I can slip the axel back
> in. I'm not strong enough to lift the wheel up into there.
>

Maybe you need a toad to help.

http://www.toadindustries.com/News_Feature_1.htm

On 2008-08-11 11:39:20 -0700, DM <fins@nospam.bs221.com> said:

> Steve Irving wrote:
>> DM wrote:
>>
>>> There doesn't seem to be room to get a socket over that axle nut with
>>> the rear shock there, plus the handle needs to be closer to the wheel so
>>> it can hang towards the floor where I can grip it and get the leverage I
>>> need to loosen the nut. Socket wrench sticks out to far. Long extensions
>>> cause me to lose the torque and control I want.
>>
>> So...how do you get the proper torque on the axle nut when going back
>> together???
>
> By feel. I just tighten it and replace the e-clip. I had my arm
> strength calibrated at the national laboratories.
>
> Fins BS#221

*Click* *click* hear that?
--
Ryder Rick
<I calibrated the National Labs calibrator>

On Mon, 11 Aug 2008 14:46:50 -0500, "Donna A."
<flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail.com> wrote:

>snarl@trippin.com wrote:
>
>> On that note, these may be kinda hard to find, but if ya stumble
>> across one, buy it. Electric over hydraulic lift. Goes up/down
>> smooth as silk. With a push of a button you can line shit like this
>
>The lift I have is operated by a crank.

Don't be so hard on yerself.

>> up *exactly*. No fuss, no mess, no screwdrivers thrown into th'
>> walls. Don't ask.
>
>I save the screwdriver throwing for when I replace that FUCKING TRIM
>RING around the headlight.

Oy! Wanna Vat-O screwdrivers?

Snarl... to go

"Donna A." <flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail.com> wrote

> I save the screwdriver throwing for when I replace that FUCKING TRIM RING
> around the headlight.

The ones on the '05 and '07, believe it or not, don't go on as easy as the
previous ones! I gave up after replacing the OEM bulb on the current barge
with a 100w 55..... the ring just wouldn't go on, period. And it had nothing
to do with the usual tussle with that stoopid-assed spring clip. It was some
kinda fitment problem right outta the factory. It was like the headlight
assembly wasn't centered properly on backing plate...... I finally just
forced it on with liberal lubrication sans spring clip with a gob of
Locktite behind the top for good measure. Damn thing was so tough to push on
I figgered it wasn't gonna be going anywhere.

Since the warranty was about to turn into a pumpkin and I had a few minor,
nigglin' things to be done gratis I had the dealer fit the trim ring
properly. I'm thinking there were some screwdrivers thrown there cuz when I
asked the wrench how he got it on he just glared at me. I've reconciled that
any time in the future I need to change a bulb the whole fairing's coming
off. It'll be easier in the long run.

112 <--- figgerin' that spring clip is a -03 part number... prolly *19*03!

"Al" <bslug205@NO_SPAM_SUCKA.com> wrote in message
news:48a09edb$1@127.0.0.1...
> TL Mitchell wrote:
>
>> Ask Santa to bring you one a them H-D you-crank-it lifts,
>
> this? <watch that line wrap folks>
>
> http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US

Eggzactly. The rubber/plastic POS protectors on the lifting runners comes
off the first time you use it or look at it wrong as it's held on with some
kinda cheapie double-sided tape. May as well peel it off right outta the box
and Super Glue 'em back on. Most of the dealers I've seen have a wood strip
screwed on 'em. YMMV... but I doubt it.

The lift also makes a nice display stand after ya brick yer bike screwing
with the EFI I'm guessin' <g>

112

George Pollard wrote:
> Steve Irving <sdirv@nospamqwest.net> wrote:
>>> Tight plus a little more. I figure if the MoCo gave me a wrench to use,
>>> I'd use it. I figger the keeper will keep it from falling off if it
>>> loosens.
>
>> And THAT's how Harleys earned a rep for leaking oil all over the landscape.....
>
> My rear axle is going to leak oil?

Yeah that's what I meant........

>
> I do have a bike with oil in the rear axle, do you you want it?
>

Already had one of them......traded it on the Deuce I had.

"TL Mitchell" <tlmitchell99@earthlink.net> wrote:
>"Donna A." <flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail.com> wrote
>
>> I save the screwdriver throwing for when I replace that FUCKING TRIM RING

>> around the headlight.
>
>The ones on the '05 and '07, believe it or not, don't go on as easy as the

>previous ones! I gave up after replacing the OEM bulb on the current barge

>with a 100w 55..... the ring just wouldn't go on, period. And it had nothing

>to do with the usual tussle with that stoopid-assed spring clip. It was
some
>kinda fitment problem right outta the factory. It was like the headlight

>assembly wasn't centered properly on backing plate...... I finally just

>forced it on with liberal lubrication sans spring clip with a gob of
>Locktite behind the top for good measure. Damn thing was so tough to push
on
>I figgered it wasn't gonna be going anywhere.
>
>Since the warranty was about to turn into a pumpkin and I had a few minor,

>nigglin' things to be done gratis I had the dealer fit the trim ring
>properly. I'm thinking there were some screwdrivers thrown there cuz when
I
>asked the wrench how he got it on he just glared at me. I've reconciled
that
>any time in the future I need to change a bulb the whole fairing's coming

>off. It'll be easier in the long run.

The several times I've had my headlight bucket out, I was able to take the
bottom screw out, and just lift the bottom up and pull the headlight out
without messing with the spring clip.

You have to hold your mouth just right to get the ring back on, you'll swear
it doesn't go on there, you'll swear it won't fit at all, then it will slip
in pretty as you please.

BTW, a small hole drilled into the plastic of the headlight bucket will keep
rainwater from filling the space and breaking your bulbs.


--
George

Snarl@trippin.com sed:

> On Mon, 11 Aug 2008 14:46:50 -0500, "Donna A."
> <flhtcui1995@SPAM.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>snarl@trippin.com wrote:
>>
>>> On that note, these may be kinda hard to find, but if ya stumble
>>> across one, buy it. Electric over hydraulic lift. Goes up/down
>>> smooth as silk. With a push of a button you can line shit like this
>>
>>The lift I have is operated by a crank.
>
> Don't be so hard on yerself.

Bada-BING!

--
Chilly BS#226
Urbi et Orbi