Hi,

My throttle cable tube connection (to the switch housing) is knurled, i.e.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling

My "knurling" is perpendicular to the rotation only, i.e. parallel ridges,
not a crisscross.

What is the best way to loosen and tighten these? Is there a special tool?

My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips with PVC
tape, but maybe there is something special for this?

Thanks.

"David T. Ashley" <dta@e3ft.com> wrote in message
news:R7edndfCaqA1QSzVnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@giganews.com ...
> Hi,
>
> My throttle cable tube connection (to the switch housing) is knurled, i.e.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling
>
> My "knurling" is perpendicular to the rotation only, i.e. parallel ridges,
> not a crisscross.
>
> What is the best way to loosen and tighten these? Is there a special
> tool?
>
> My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips with
> PVC tape, but maybe there is something special for this?

The obvious answer pre-supposes an opposable thumb. Yell again if that's not
the case.

On Sun, 24 Aug 2008 18:11:37 -0400, "David T. Ashley" <dta@e3ft.com>
wrote:

>Hi,
>
>My throttle cable tube connection (to the switch housing) is knurled, i.e.
>
>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling
>
>My "knurling" is perpendicular to the rotation only, i.e. parallel ridges,
>not a crisscross.
>
>What is the best way to loosen and tighten these? Is there a special tool?
>
>My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips with PVC
>tape, but maybe there is something special for this?
>
>Thanks.

You need a knurl wrench.


--
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'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
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David T. Ashley wrote:
> Hi,
>
> My throttle cable tube connection (to the switch housing) is knurled, i.e.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling
>
> My "knurling" is perpendicular to the rotation only, i.e. parallel
> ridges, not a crisscross.
>
> What is the best way to loosen and tighten these? Is there a special tool?
>
> My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips with
> PVC tape, but maybe there is something special for this?

It's not a lathe chuck, your shop teacher won't see you. Use
the pliers in the tool kit. If you're really worried about
marking it up (why?) go ahead and put some tape over it but
99.999% of all bikes out there will have plier marks on the
speedometer cable, etc.

--
'01 SV650S '99 EX250-F13 '98 ZG1000-A13
OMF #7

On Aug 24, 3:11�pm, "David T. Ashley" <d...@e3ft.com> wrote:

> My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips with PVC
> tape, but maybe there is something special for this?

Yes, I have pliers for just about anything you can imagine.

One adjustable pliers resembles Channel Locks, and has plastic lined
jaws.

It's actually designed for tightening and loosening the coupling nuts
of aircraft electrical connectors

But the pliers in your tool kit will work fine if you wrap them with
almost any kind of tape.

Mark Olson wrote:
> David T. Ashley wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> My throttle cable tube connection (to the switch housing) is knurled,
>> i.e.
>>
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling
>>
>> My "knurling" is perpendicular to the rotation only, i.e. parallel
>> ridges, not a crisscross.
>>
>> What is the best way to loosen and tighten these? Is there a special
>> tool?
>>
>> My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips
>> with PVC tape, but maybe there is something special for this?
>
> It's not a lathe chuck, your shop teacher won't see you. Use
> the pliers in the tool kit. If you're really worried about
> marking it up (why?) go ahead and put some tape over it but
> 99.999% of all bikes out there will have plier marks on the
> speedometer cable, etc.
>

And if you really want to be be
super-extra-double-secret-probation-careful, go buy some plier grip
covers at Sears.

If you don't have a knurl wrench, use a scrap of leather belt in pliers.
I save old timing belts for this kind of stuff, they make a decent strap
wrench used with a pair of vise-grips.

"MikeWhy" <boat042-nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3hlsk.35529$co7.481@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com...
> "David T. Ashley" <dta@e3ft.com> wrote in message
> news:R7edndfCaqA1QSzVnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@giganews.com ...
>> Hi,
>>
>> My throttle cable tube connection (to the switch housing) is knurled,
>> i.e.
>>
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling
>>
>> My "knurling" is perpendicular to the rotation only, i.e. parallel
>> ridges, not a crisscross.
>>
>> What is the best way to loosen and tighten these? Is there a special
>> tool?
>>
>> My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips with
>> PVC tape, but maybe there is something special for this?
>
> The obvious answer pre-supposes an opposable thumb. Yell again if that's
> not the case.

The issue is that these items are tighter than one can loosen (or tighten)
by hand.

It is a mystery to me why they didn't just use something with a hex shape so
a wrench would fit on it ... why pretend it is designed for a human hand?

Looks like plier jaw covers from Sears ....

"Polarhound" <udf7832283483y@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:3IidnbHIhYmPmC_VnZ2dnUVZ_r7inZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Mark Olson wrote:
>> David T. Ashley wrote:
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> My throttle cable tube connection (to the switch housing) is knurled,
>>> i.e.
>>>
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling
>>>
>>> My "knurling" is perpendicular to the rotation only, i.e. parallel
>>> ridges, not a crisscross.
>>>
>>> What is the best way to loosen and tighten these? Is there a special
>>> tool?
>>>
>>> My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips with
>>> PVC tape, but maybe there is something special for this?
>>
>> It's not a lathe chuck, your shop teacher won't see you. Use
>> the pliers in the tool kit. If you're really worried about
>> marking it up (why?) go ahead and put some tape over it but
>> 99.999% of all bikes out there will have plier marks on the
>> speedometer cable, etc.
>>
>
> And if you really want to be be
> super-extra-double-secret-probation-careful, go buy some plier grip covers
> at Sears.

The Sears web site came up dry, but I found this:

http://www.hobbico.com/tools/hcar0640.html

My secret hope was that one of you would tell me about a tool designed just
for that job ... nope.

It is amazing to me that Honda would fail to use a hex shape on something
that really is too tight to be adjusted by hand.

This is in contrast to, for example, the knurled disc for the clutch
adjustment, which one CAN adjust by hand.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...products_id=12

No, I don't work for this company, but I recommend their products. (sorry,
couldn't help it)

"David T. Ashley" <dta@e3ft.com> wrote in message
news:7omdnYJv8-tcgy_VnZ2dnUVZ_hWdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>
> "MikeWhy" <boat042-nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:3hlsk.35529$co7.481@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com...
>> "David T. Ashley" <dta@e3ft.com> wrote in message
>> news:R7edndfCaqA1QSzVnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@giganews.com ...
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> My throttle cable tube connection (to the switch housing) is knurled,
>>> i.e.
>>>
>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling
>>>
>>> My "knurling" is perpendicular to the rotation only, i.e. parallel
>>> ridges, not a crisscross.
>>>
>>> What is the best way to loosen and tighten these? Is there a special
>>> tool?
>>>
>>> My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips with
>>> PVC tape, but maybe there is something special for this?
>>
>> The obvious answer pre-supposes an opposable thumb. Yell again if that's
>> not the case.
>
> The issue is that these items are tighter than one can loosen (or tighten)
> by hand.
>
> It is a mystery to me why they didn't just use something with a hex shape
> so a wrench would fit on it ... why pretend it is designed for a human
> hand?
>
> Looks like plier jaw covers from Sears ....

Hmmm. The locknut on some (many? most?) cable ends generally have a radial
slot cut into them. It's there so you scan stick in a flat blade screwdriver
or popsicle stick for leverage. There's something wrong if the cable thread
is jammed so tight to require pliers. I can't think of a good reason why the
cable housing would require more torque than even arthritic fingers can
apply. Especially on a bike new enough to worry about the finish on the
knurl.

On Aug 24, 7:53�pm, "David T. Ashley" <d...@e3ft.com> wrote:

> The issue is that these items are tighter than one can loosen (or tighten)
> by hand.

That's rather odd, because motorcycle racers used to adjust cable-
operated clutches and brakes in the middle of a race, without any
tools at all.

Some race bikes used to have a knurled thumb wheel with a little bent
wire
retainer to hold the thumb wheel in whatever position it was left in.

"MikeWhy" <boat042-nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:MApsk.17676$LG4.9680@nlpi065.nbdc.sbc.com...
> "David T. Ashley" <dta@e3ft.com> wrote in message
> news:7omdnYJv8-tcgy_VnZ2dnUVZ_hWdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>>
>> "MikeWhy" <boat042-nospam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:3hlsk.35529$co7.481@nlpi066.nbdc.sbc.com...
>>> "David T. Ashley" <dta@e3ft.com> wrote in message
>>> news:R7edndfCaqA1QSzVnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@giganews.com ...
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> My throttle cable tube connection (to the switch housing) is knurled,
>>>> i.e.
>>>>
>>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling
>>>>
>>>> My "knurling" is perpendicular to the rotation only, i.e. parallel
>>>> ridges, not a crisscross.
>>>>
>>>> What is the best way to loosen and tighten these? Is there a special
>>>> tool?
>>>>
>>>> My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips with
>>>> PVC tape, but maybe there is something special for this?
>>>
>>> The obvious answer pre-supposes an opposable thumb. Yell again if that's
>>> not the case.
>>
>> The issue is that these items are tighter than one can loosen (or
>> tighten) by hand.
>>
>> It is a mystery to me why they didn't just use something with a hex shape
>> so a wrench would fit on it ... why pretend it is designed for a human
>> hand?
>>
>> Looks like plier jaw covers from Sears ....
>
> Hmmm. The locknut on some (many? most?) cable ends generally have a radial
> slot cut into them. It's there so you scan stick in a flat blade
> screwdriver or popsicle stick for leverage. There's something wrong if the
> cable thread is jammed so tight to require pliers. I can't think of a good
> reason why the cable housing would require more torque than even arthritic
> fingers can apply. Especially on a bike new enough to worry about the
> finish on the knurl.

Ah, OK, I see our misunderstanding.

The particular fitting I'm referring to doesn't have a slot. The switch
assembly for my bike has two stiff bent tubes coming out of it for the
throttle cables. The "knurled" thing attaches the tube to the switch
assembly. It isn't meant to be adjusted once installed.

My clutch cable (for example) has the slotted adjustment thingie, and that
is adjustable by hand no problem.

These knurled attachment fittings are shown here:

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com...MFH4F0300A.gif

at the handgrip end of Item 1 and Item 2.

These seem to screw fully into the switch assembly (Item 6) until flush.
They are not meant to be adjusted.

Since they are to attach rather than to adjust, it should have a hex shape
to it rather than knurled.

"JREwing" <Buteo.lineatus@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b338ce12-8319-473b-ae73-6ffb15e98363@r15g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 24, 7:53�pm, "David T. Ashley" <d...@e3ft.com> wrote:
>
> The issue is that these items are tighter than one can loosen (or tighten)
> by hand.
>
>That's rather odd, because motorcycle racers used to adjust cable-
>operated clutches and brakes in the middle of a race, without any
>tools at all.
>
>Some race bikes used to have a knurled thumb wheel with a little bent
>wire
>retainer to hold the thumb wheel in whatever position it was left in.

Ah, OK, I see our misunderstanding.

The particular fitting I'm referring to doesn't have a slot. The switch
assembly for my bike has two stiff bent tubes coming out of it for the
throttle cables. The "knurled" thing attaches the tube to the switch
assembly. It isn't meant to be adjusted once installed.

My clutch cable (for example) has the slotted adjustment thingie, and that
is adjustable by hand no problem.

These knurled attachment fittings are shown here:

http://images.powersportsnetwork.com...MFH4F0300A.gif

at the handgrip end of Item 1 and Item 2.

These seem to screw fully into the switch assembly (Item 6) until flush.
They are not meant to be adjusted.

Since they are to attach rather than to adjust, it should have a hex shape
to it rather than knurled.

"Stupendous Man" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message
news:6hef6fFl1ih4U1@mid.individual.net...
> If you don't have a knurl wrench, use a scrap of leather belt in pliers.
> I save old timing belts for this kind of stuff, they make a decent strap
> wrench used with a pair of vise-grips.

I like that idea. The properties of leather would probably give it a better
grip than rubber on a knurled surface ...

On Aug 24, 9:02�pm, "David T. Ashley" <d...@e3ft.com> wrote:

> Since they are to attach rather than to adjust, it should have a hex shape
> to it rather than knurled.

If it's that important to you, measure the outer diameter of the
threaded part that screws into the throttle housing (it's probably
around 10 or 12 mm), measure the distance between threads (common
metric pitches are 1.0, 1.25 and 1.5 mm), and buy yourself two metric
hex jam nuts to replace the knurled nuts.

There may be a spacing problem though. Possibly Honda's designers
chose knurled nuts because they took up less space.

David T. Ashley wrote:
> "Polarhound" <udf7832283483y@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:3IidnbHIhYmPmC_VnZ2dnUVZ_r7inZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> Mark Olson wrote:
>>> David T. Ashley wrote:
>>>> Hi,
>>>>
>>>> My throttle cable tube connection (to the switch housing) is
>>>> knurled, i.e.
>>>>
>>>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knurling
>>>>
>>>> My "knurling" is perpendicular to the rotation only, i.e. parallel
>>>> ridges, not a crisscross.
>>>>
>>>> What is the best way to loosen and tighten these? Is there a
>>>> special tool?
>>>>
>>>> My first thought would be to wrap the jaws of pliers or vice-grips
>>>> with PVC tape, but maybe there is something special for this?
>>>
>>> It's not a lathe chuck, your shop teacher won't see you. Use
>>> the pliers in the tool kit. If you're really worried about
>>> marking it up (why?) go ahead and put some tape over it but
>>> 99.999% of all bikes out there will have plier marks on the
>>> speedometer cable, etc.
>>>
>>
>> And if you really want to be be
>> super-extra-double-secret-probation-careful, go buy some plier grip
>> covers at Sears.
>
> The Sears web site came up dry, but I found this:
>
> http://www.hobbico.com/tools/hcar0640.html
>
> My secret hope was that one of you would tell me about a tool designed
> just for that job ... nope.
>
> It is amazing to me that Honda would fail to use a hex shape on
> something that really is too tight to be adjusted by hand.

Yamaha used knurled exhaust nuts on the XS750/850. Of course, they also
left the end open so you could stick in a 6mm allen wrench to tighten

"JREwing" <Buteo.lineatus@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3c321879-4be2-4eb5-845d-ac2edcd7c39a@b30g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 24, 9:02�pm, "David T. Ashley" <d...@e3ft.com> wrote:
>
>> Since they are to attach rather than to adjust, it should have a hex
>> shape
>> to it rather than knurled.
>
>If it's that important to you, measure the outer diameter of the
>threaded part that screws into the throttle housing (it's probably
>around 10 or 12 mm), measure the distance between threads (common
>metric pitches are 1.0, 1.25 and 1.5 mm), and buy yourself two metric
>hex jam nuts to replace the knurled nuts.
>
>There may be a spacing problem though. Possibly Honda's designers
>chose knurled nuts because they took up less space.

It is a mystery. Even the fittings at the ends of the tubes where the
flexible part begins are hex.

It just doesn't make sense to me why anything not meant to be finger-torqued
or adjusted would be knurled.

My clutch cable adjustment (also knurled) works just fine. That is a fine
application for something knurled ...

MikeWhy wrote:

> Hmmm. The locknut on some (many? most?) cable ends generally have a
> radial slot cut into them. It's there so you scan stick in a flat blade
> screwdriver or popsicle stick for leverage. There's something wrong if

No, that is not the reason why there is a slot cut in the
locknut. Think about what the end of a clutch cable looks
like and tell me how you would attach the cable to the
lever without a slot in that locknut.

--
'07 FJ13AW '99 EX250-F13
OMF #7

On Aug 24, 9:12*pm, "Martin Walker" <sorrychar...@nospam.net> wrote:
> http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...cPath=5&produc....
>
> No, I don't work for this company, but I recommend their products. (sorry,
> couldn't help it)

As a giggle reminder...Honda has a seal for the header to muffler
interface that is called a "Muffler Bearing" no kidding. I've seen it
in the catalong AND on the official parts fiche! Oh and uh yeah I've
bought a pair before.
--
Keith