Hey, it's working (somewhat). Took it out for a quick spin around the block
and I survived, didn't have to push it back home, didn't run over small
animals. Had to keep it in choke the whole ride, not what I was expecting
but perhaps this baby has ice in her veins.

The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem with
the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it engages it
ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm) That's no way to
ride in traffic.

Smokes like a demon, but some of that may be water vapor from the bike
seeing how it needs choke to keep alive.

Replaced that Walmart special with a OEM Yuasa battery and now I can start
it without wearing out the starter motor.

Horn doesn't work, but I've heard those can be adjusted so I'll tackle that
when I tackle the throttle cables.

One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it on
there?

http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PB090178.JPG

Eigenvector <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hey, it's working (somewhat). Took it out for a quick spin around the block
> and I survived, didn't have to push it back home, didn't run over small
> animals. Had to keep it in choke the whole ride, not what I was expecting
> but perhaps this baby has ice in her veins.

That's not right, unless your ride was under a mile.

>
> The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem with
> the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it engages it
> ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm) That's no way to
> ride in traffic.

I hate those old Honda twin-cable set-ups.
>
> Smokes like a demon, but some of that may be water vapor from the bike
> seeing how it needs choke to keep alive.

Um, could just be old oil that's seeped past the valve guides. Get it
good and hot on a 20mile ride, and see then. One way to check for worn
rings is to go down hard on the over-run, on a close throttle all the
way, and then whack the throttle open, while glancing back at the
exhaust. This forces oil up into the bores. A cloud of blue smoke means
worn rings.

>
> Replaced that Walmart special with a OEM Yuasa battery and now I can start
> it without wearing out the starter motor.

Good move. There really is a difference between top brand batteries and
generic ones.
>
> Horn doesn't work, but I've heard those can be adjusted so I'll tackle that
> when I tackle the throttle cables.

Check the connections first with a test bulb. If that's OK, then yes,
undo the tiny locknut on the adjuster screw on the back of the horn and
screw in the little grub screw while holding down the horn button. If
you don't get a result, then scrap the hown.
>
> One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it on
> there?

Gaffa tape wrapped round the bar.
>
> http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PB090178.JPG

Hey, that's not bad. Horrible fairing, mind. made up for by the
high-tech luggage box :-)

I've just sold my CB550F:

http://tinyurl.com/2avotl


--
BMW K1100LT 750SS CB400F CD250 CB125 SL125
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com

"Eigenvector" <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:kN2dncSoctBfxsHanZ2dnUVZ_gydnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Hey, it's working (somewhat). Took it out for a quick spin around the
> block and I survived, didn't have to push it back home, didn't run over
> small animals. Had to keep it in choke the whole ride, not what I was
> expecting but perhaps this baby has ice in her veins.
>
> The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem
> with the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it
> engages it ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm)
> That's no way to ride in traffic.
>
> Smokes like a demon, but some of that may be water vapor from the bike
> seeing how it needs choke to keep alive.
>
> Replaced that Walmart special with a OEM Yuasa battery and now I can start
> it without wearing out the starter motor.
>
> Horn doesn't work, but I've heard those can be adjusted so I'll tackle
> that when I tackle the throttle cables.
>
> One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it
> on there?
>
> http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PB090178.JPG
A very cool bike. My cousin Brian owned one in 1979. It would beat the fuck
out of my Bonneville in a straight line (until I built the Bonnie).

I'd take the fairing off, after winter though. It ruins the "classic"
ricegrinder look.


--
Rev. Thumper Rabbitt

Minister and Prophet,
Church of Rec.Motorcycles®.

>

On Dec 9, 4:19 pm, "Eigenvector" <m44_mas...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hey, it's working (somewhat). Took it out for a quick spin around the block
> and I survived, didn't have to push it back home, didn't run over small
> animals. Had to keep it in choke the whole ride, not what I was expecting
> but perhaps this baby has ice in her veins.

That's usually a sign that the idle jets are plugged. After spending
years in a barn it would be best to clean the carbs. While you're at
it check for rust in the tank. If there is any it would be a good
idea to install a fuel filters if it doesn't already have them.

> The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem with
> the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it engages it
> ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm) That's no way to
> ride in traffic.
>
> Smokes like a demon, but some of that may be water vapor from the bike
> seeing how it needs choke to keep alive.
>
> Replaced that Walmart special with a OEM Yuasa battery and now I can start
> it without wearing out the starter motor.
>
> Horn doesn't work, but I've heard those can be adjusted so I'll tackle that
> when I tackle the throttle cables.
>
> One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it on
> there?
>
> http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PB090178.JPG

> One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it on
> there?

You can use Ladies' Hair spray for glue, spra it on teh bar or on the
Grip and then you can take your time pushing it on.
Things like crazy glue dry too quick.
Bg

"The Older Gentleman" <totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1i8vicz.1g51df75wb5npN%totallydeadmailbox@yah oo.co.uk...
> Eigenvector <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey, it's working (somewhat). Took it out for a quick spin around the
>> block
>> and I survived, didn't have to push it back home, didn't run over small
>> animals. Had to keep it in choke the whole ride, not what I was
>> expecting
>> but perhaps this baby has ice in her veins.
>
> That's not right, unless your ride was under a mile.
>
>>
>> The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem
>> with
>> the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it engages
>> it
>> ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm) That's no way
>> to
>> ride in traffic.
>
> I hate those old Honda twin-cable set-ups.
>>
>> Smokes like a demon, but some of that may be water vapor from the bike
>> seeing how it needs choke to keep alive.
>
> Um, could just be old oil that's seeped past the valve guides. Get it
> good and hot on a 20mile ride, and see then. One way to check for worn
> rings is to go down hard on the over-run, on a close throttle all the
> way, and then whack the throttle open, while glancing back at the
> exhaust. This forces oil up into the bores. A cloud of blue smoke means
> worn rings.
>
>>
>> Replaced that Walmart special with a OEM Yuasa battery and now I can
>> start
>> it without wearing out the starter motor.
>
> Good move. There really is a difference between top brand batteries and
> generic ones.
>>
>> Horn doesn't work, but I've heard those can be adjusted so I'll tackle
>> that
>> when I tackle the throttle cables.
>
> Check the connections first with a test bulb. If that's OK, then yes,
> undo the tiny locknut on the adjuster screw on the back of the horn and
> screw in the little grub screw while holding down the horn button. If
> you don't get a result, then scrap the hown.
>>
>> One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it
>> on
>> there?
>
> Gaffa tape wrapped round the bar.


Never used gaffers tape before, another person suggested hairspray. Might
try that first as a super cheap and quick first try.


>>
>> http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PB090178.JPG
>
> Hey, that's not bad. Horrible fairing, mind. made up for by the
> high-tech luggage box :-)


That milk crate is probably the most solidly mounted item on the bike. I'll
tell you one thing, I have serious reservations about that seat back - all
it seems to do is get in the way of my foot when mounting/dismounting. I
believe that will go for now.

>
> I've just sold my CB550F:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2avotl
>

Wow you really shined that baby up! Shame you got dogged by that troll in
the comments box.

<ottguit@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:9f0db0a2-993c-4210-8cd8-2c235526e65b@a35g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>> One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it
>> on
>> there?
>
> You can use Ladies' Hair spray for glue, spra it on teh bar or on the
> Grip and then you can take your time pushing it on.
> Things like crazy glue dry too quick.
> Bg

I was pondering crazy glue, but you're right of course, the glue would dry
before the grip got seated fully and the bond would be crap.

"Bruce Richmond" <bsr3997@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:b6a2f072-d81d-4bc2-a729-da88adf29e24@x69g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
> On Dec 9, 4:19 pm, "Eigenvector" <m44_mas...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Hey, it's working (somewhat). Took it out for a quick spin around the
>> block
>> and I survived, didn't have to push it back home, didn't run over small
>> animals. Had to keep it in choke the whole ride, not what I was
>> expecting
>> but perhaps this baby has ice in her veins.
>
> That's usually a sign that the idle jets are plugged. After spending
> years in a barn it would be best to clean the carbs. While you're at
> it check for rust in the tank. If there is any it would be a good
> idea to install a fuel filters if it doesn't already have them.

Naw, that carb is as clean as she's going to get. Doesn't mean the jet's
are shot, but they aren't varnished. Tank is clean too. I'm just gonna
cross my fingers that increased usage will cure whatever ails the jets. If
it doesn't - that's why I'm picking up a dual-sport next year.

>
>> The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem
>> with
>> the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it engages
>> it
>> ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm) That's no way
>> to
>> ride in traffic.
>>
>> Smokes like a demon, but some of that may be water vapor from the bike
>> seeing how it needs choke to keep alive.
>>
>> Replaced that Walmart special with a OEM Yuasa battery and now I can
>> start
>> it without wearing out the starter motor.
>>
>> Horn doesn't work, but I've heard those can be adjusted so I'll tackle
>> that
>> when I tackle the throttle cables.
>>
>> One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it
>> on
>> there?
>>
>> http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PB090178.JPG
>

Eigenvector wrote:

> The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem with
> the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it engages it
> ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm) That's no way to
> ride in traffic.

The jump isn't your cables.. It is your carbs crying for a can of Seafoam.

On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 13:19:00 -0800, "Eigenvector"
<m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Hey, it's working (somewhat). Took it out for a quick spin around the block
>and I survived, didn't have to push it back home, didn't run over small
>animals. Had to keep it in choke the whole ride, not what I was expecting
>but perhaps this baby has ice in her veins.
>
>The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem with
>the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it engages it
>ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm) That's no way to
>ride in traffic.
>
>Smokes like a demon, but some of that may be water vapor from the bike
>seeing how it needs choke to keep alive.
>
>Replaced that Walmart special with a OEM Yuasa battery and now I can start
>it without wearing out the starter motor.
>
>Horn doesn't work, but I've heard those can be adjusted so I'll tackle that
>when I tackle the throttle cables.
>
>One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it on
>there?
>
>http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PB090178.JPG
>


So, what did you find with the clutch? Just curious.

Lugnut

On Dec 9, 6:28 pm, "Eigenvector" <m44_mas...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> "Bruce Richmond" <bsr3...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
>
> news:b6a2f072-d81d-4bc2-a729-da88adf29e24@x69g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
>
> > On Dec 9, 4:19 pm, "Eigenvector" <m44_mas...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> Hey, it's working (somewhat). Took it out for a quick spin around the
> >> block
> >> and I survived, didn't have to push it back home, didn't run over small
> >> animals. Had to keep it in choke the whole ride, not what I was
> >> expecting
> >> but perhaps this baby has ice in her veins.
>
> > That's usually a sign that the idle jets are plugged. After spending
> > years in a barn it would be best to clean the carbs. While you're at
> > it check for rust in the tank. If there is any it would be a good
> > idea to install a fuel filters if it doesn't already have them.
>
> Naw, that carb is as clean as she's going to get. Doesn't mean the jet's
> are shot, but they aren't varnished. Tank is clean too. I'm just gonna
> cross my fingers that increased usage will cure whatever ails the jets. If
> it doesn't - that's why I'm picking up a dual-sport next year.

If it will stay running with the choke off then running some Sea Foam
or Gunk carb cleaner through it will help. If it needs the choke to
stay running then the idle jets are plugged and you will need to take
the carbs apart and push a wire through the small holes in the idle
jets. I find the fine copper wires in an electric cord work well for
this job. It's either that or run around with the choke on all the
time and foul plugs. Just my $.02

Bruce


>
>
>
>
> >> The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem
> >> with
> >> the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it engages
> >> it
> >> ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm) That's no way
> >> to
> >> ride in traffic.
>
> >> Smokes like a demon, but some of that may be water vapor from the bike
> >> seeing how it needs choke to keep alive.
>
> >> Replaced that Walmart special with a OEM Yuasa battery and now I can
> >> start
> >> it without wearing out the starter motor.
>
> >> Horn doesn't work, but I've heard those can be adjusted so I'll tackle
> >> that
> >> when I tackle the throttle cables.
>
> >> One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it
> >> on
> >> there?
>
> >>http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve.../PB090178.JPG- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

"Polarhound" <polarhound@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:xaOdnU-7UsUoCMHanZ2dnUVZ_rrinZ2d@comcast.com...
> Eigenvector wrote:
>
>> The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem
>> with the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it
>> engages it ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm)
>> That's no way to ride in traffic.
>
> The jump isn't your cables.. It is your carbs crying for a can of Seafoam.

Well I just happen to have a can of that in the garage.

So what's the best course there - dump it in the tank or pour it in the fuel
line directly?

"lugnut" <lugnut@roadkill.net> wrote in message
news:ji5pl3h9u10roai58q2kamohi6aa4l1q2m@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 9 Dec 2007 13:19:00 -0800, "Eigenvector"
> <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>Hey, it's working (somewhat). Took it out for a quick spin around the
>>block
>>and I survived, didn't have to push it back home, didn't run over small
>>animals. Had to keep it in choke the whole ride, not what I was expecting
>>but perhaps this baby has ice in her veins.
>>
>>The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem
>>with
>>the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it engages
>>it
>>ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm) That's no way to
>>ride in traffic.
>>
>>Smokes like a demon, but some of that may be water vapor from the bike
>>seeing how it needs choke to keep alive.
>>
>>Replaced that Walmart special with a OEM Yuasa battery and now I can start
>>it without wearing out the starter motor.
>>
>>Horn doesn't work, but I've heard those can be adjusted so I'll tackle
>>that
>>when I tackle the throttle cables.
>>
>>One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it
>>on
>>there?
>>
>>http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PB090178.JPG
>>
>
>
> So, what did you find with the clutch? Just curious.
>
> Lugnut

I didn't find a thing, in fact I didn't even look at it. Just went back out
to start it up and figure out whether it would idle or not and when I pulled
the clutch to back up it moved. Really it was just a lark to see if rocking
it would free it up (just one more time...) and low and behold it did.
What's truly amazing is that the friction zone is right where it should be.
I'm not going to hold my breath that it will stay working, seems like
perhaps the clutch freed up after MAYBE heat from the oil broke it loose and
it took an hour or so of idling and rocking back and forth to get the heat
to the right spot??? That's not to say the next step in this will be the
clutch going from dragging to slipping but until then I'm going to milk it
for all it's got.

I still have clutch parts on order, I fully intend on rebuilding it if only
to inspect the friction plates and whatnot.

Eigenvector wrote:
> "Polarhound" <polarhound@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:xaOdnU-7UsUoCMHanZ2dnUVZ_rrinZ2d@comcast.com...
>> Eigenvector wrote:
>>
>>> The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem
>>> with the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it
>>> engages it ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm)
>>> That's no way to ride in traffic.
>> The jump isn't your cables.. It is your carbs crying for a can of Seafoam.
>
> Well I just happen to have a can of that in the garage.
>
> So what's the best course there - dump it in the tank or pour it in the fuel
> line directly?

Pour about half a can into a full tank and go on a 50 mile ride.

"Eigenvector" <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote

> So what's the best course there - dump it in the tank or pour it in the
> fuel line directly?

The best course of action is to get some SERIOUS carb cleaner instead of
something multi-purpose like Seafoam.

Original Gumout or Berryman's B12 are two good ones.
Twice the recommended rate in 1/2 tank of gas for a few days and a few
miles, then fill tank.
OR
Drain carbs and put in full strength via input lines; let sit for a few days
then drain/flush bowls again B4 starting.
Also do option one above for good measure.

Took it out for a longer ride today, this baby's got some power - far more
than that GZ250 I learned on. I now understand why they recommend that
beginners stick with 250's and below. I would goose the engine in 1st and
could feel the front end picking up - obviously not catching air, but
definitely raising up on the forks. If I wasn't utterly paranoid about
dumping it, it could have easily gotten away from me if I panicked. Bike
cut out on me at low RPM repeatedly - ya'll right, the idle jets are messed
up. Have to address that when I get some more time.

Question - how do you handle going down long steep hills when you want to
keep your speed below 20 mph? I thinking 1/2 mile in length and a
residential street - something Seattle has in abundance. I basically rode
the clutch and used the back brakes to keep speed down but that seemed a
little inefficient. Compression braking wouldn't have helped in this
instance.


"Eigenvector" <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:kN2dncSoctBfxsHanZ2dnUVZ_gydnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Hey, it's working (somewhat). Took it out for a quick spin around the
> block and I survived, didn't have to push it back home, didn't run over
> small animals. Had to keep it in choke the whole ride, not what I was
> expecting but perhaps this baby has ice in her veins.
>
> The throttle cables need adjusting now, horrible horrible slack problem
> with the throttle turning 1/3 of the way before it engages and when it
> engages it ENGAGES (1400 rpm..1400rpm 14000 rpm 4000 rpm...800 rpm)
> That's no way to ride in traffic.
>
> Smokes like a demon, but some of that may be water vapor from the bike
> seeing how it needs choke to keep alive.
>
> Replaced that Walmart special with a OEM Yuasa battery and now I can start
> it without wearing out the starter motor.
>
> Horn doesn't work, but I've heard those can be adjusted so I'll tackle
> that when I tackle the throttle cables.
>
> One last thing - the handlebar grip fell off. Any sure remedy to keep it
> on there?
>
> http://photos.imageevent.com/eigenve...e/PB090178.JPG
>

On Tue, 11 Dec 2007 17:26:26 -0800, "Eigenvector"
<m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>Question - how do you handle going down long steep hills when you want to
>keep your speed below 20 mph? I thinking 1/2 mile in length and a
>residential street - something Seattle has in abundance. I basically rode
>the clutch and used the back brakes to keep speed down but that seemed a
>little inefficient. Compression braking wouldn't have helped in this
>instance.

I am not so sure about that. When I lived on the coast I rode a 500-4
from Honda. It's been over thirty years but I recall second gear used
to provide enough engine braking for going down those steep hills we
had in Vancouver and New Westminster.

My guess is unless the compression is absolutely shot in your bike you
could maintain 20 mph in second gear going downhill. And if not then
use the brakes, both of them.

After all that's why God invented them.

I wouldn't be riding the clutch though. It's not like you would be
working the friction zone.


--
2000 Yamaha Venture Millennium
2004 HD Road King

Merry Christmas To All,
And To All A Good Ride

"Calgary" <actual.rider_remove_the_obvious_@telus.net> wrote in message
news:0cful3ljhpn5g1dlgdjdehd0dob702rok6@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 11 Dec 2007 17:26:26 -0800, "Eigenvector"
> <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>Question - how do you handle going down long steep hills when you want to
>>keep your speed below 20 mph? I thinking 1/2 mile in length and a
>>residential street - something Seattle has in abundance. I basically rode
>>the clutch and used the back brakes to keep speed down but that seemed a
>>little inefficient. Compression braking wouldn't have helped in this
>>instance.
>
> I am not so sure about that. When I lived on the coast I rode a 500-4
> from Honda. It's been over thirty years but I recall second gear used
> to provide enough engine braking for going down those steep hills we
> had in Vancouver and New Westminster.
>
> My guess is unless the compression is absolutely shot in your bike you
> could maintain 20 mph in second gear going downhill. And if not then
> use the brakes, both of them.
>
> After all that's why God invented them.
>
> I wouldn't be riding the clutch though. It's not like you would be
> working the friction zone.
>
>
> --
> 2000 Yamaha Venture Millennium
> 2004 HD Road King


Maybe it was a lack of trust by this newbie. It just seemed like on the
hill the bike accelerated rather quickly in 2nd just rolling. That's one
thing I'll have to learn and learn quickly is a sense of how fast I'm going
without looking at the speedometer - I might have been going less quickly
that I thought I was.

On Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:21:27 -0800, "Eigenvector"
<m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>"Calgary" <actual.rider_remove_the_obvious_@telus.net> wrote in message
>news:0cful3ljhpn5g1dlgdjdehd0dob702rok6@4ax.com.. .
>> On Tue, 11 Dec 2007 17:26:26 -0800, "Eigenvector"
>> <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>Question - how do you handle going down long steep hills when you want to
>>>keep your speed below 20 mph? I thinking 1/2 mile in length and a
>>>residential street - something Seattle has in abundance. I basically rode
>>>the clutch and used the back brakes to keep speed down but that seemed a
>>>little inefficient. Compression braking wouldn't have helped in this
>>>instance.
>>
>> I am not so sure about that. When I lived on the coast I rode a 500-4
>> from Honda. It's been over thirty years but I recall second gear used
>> to provide enough engine braking for going down those steep hills we
>> had in Vancouver and New Westminster.
>>
>> My guess is unless the compression is absolutely shot in your bike you
>> could maintain 20 mph in second gear going downhill. And if not then
>> use the brakes, both of them.
>>
>> After all that's why God invented them.
>>
>> I wouldn't be riding the clutch though. It's not like you would be
>> working the friction zone.
>>
>>
>> --
>> 2000 Yamaha Venture Millennium
>> 2004 HD Road King
>
>
>Maybe it was a lack of trust by this newbie. It just seemed like on the
>hill the bike accelerated rather quickly in 2nd just rolling. That's one
>thing I'll have to learn and learn quickly is a sense of how fast I'm going
>without looking at the speedometer - I might have been going less quickly
>that I thought I was.
>

You need to get those carbs sorted out before you do too much of
anything on that bike. It's possible they are revving high and not
allowing engine braking.

Compression braking aside, throttle control on a motorcycle needs to
be smooth and predictable. I fear you will get yourself into a fix and
lacking predictable throttle control you won't be able to get out of
it.

Fix your bike before you get too ambitious.


--
2000 Yamaha Venture Millennium
2004 HD Road King

Merry Christmas To All,
And To All A Good Ride

On Dec 11, 5:26 pm, "Eigenvector" <m44_mas...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Question - how do you handle going down long steep hills when you want to
> keep your speed below 20 mph? I thinking 1/2 mile in length and a
> residential street - something Seattle has in abundance. I basically rode
> the clutch and used the back brakes to keep speed down but that seemed a
> little inefficient. Compression braking wouldn't have helped in this
> instance.

No need to pull the clutch in. Use engine braking in
combination with the brakes, especially the rear.
I find the combination of engine braking and rear
brake especially useful on dirt. A tach is really
helpful too in monitoring the RPMs.

Incidentally, use some grip glue or contact cement
to keep the grips on tight and get the carbs and
cables fixed right. You really ought to get both of
these taken care of in the interests of safety before
you ride it much.

"Eigenvector" <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote

> Maybe it was a lack of trust by this newbie. It just seemed like on the
> hill the bike accelerated rather quickly in 2nd just rolling. That's one
> thing I'll have to learn and learn quickly is a sense of how fast I'm
> going without looking at the speedometer - I might have been going less
> quickly that I thought I was.

Seems to me like you need to learn 2 other things too:

1) Look at the speedometer when you need to instead of guessing
and
2) Don't ask for advise based on a wild assumption.......if you want to get
the proper advise, that is.

To echo a previous post: Unless the engine is completely shot or the clutch
is slipping badly, an inline 4 has PLENTY of engine braking......so much so
that some models have a clutch designed to slip should the operator shift
down too many gears at too high a speed.

NOW, having said all that, if it felt like you were going too fast, then you
probably were........for you, given your skill and experience.

Riding the clutch makes matters worse not better (decreases the engine
braking) so you should not mess with the clutch and use BOTH brakes lightly
if needed, or shift to a lower gear when approaching said hill.

If you think you need to be in 1st to go down a hill, something is
drastically wrong; hills that steep are called cliffs! ;-)

"Calgary" <actual.rider_remove_the_obvious_@telus.net> wrote in message
news:brhul318hs0cpbjgcqvajra41n5ndfm6kv@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:21:27 -0800, "Eigenvector"
> <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Calgary" <actual.rider_remove_the_obvious_@telus.net> wrote in message
>>news:0cful3ljhpn5g1dlgdjdehd0dob702rok6@4ax.com. ..
>>> On Tue, 11 Dec 2007 17:26:26 -0800, "Eigenvector"
>>> <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Question - how do you handle going down long steep hills when you want
>>>>to
>>>>keep your speed below 20 mph? I thinking 1/2 mile in length and a
>>>>residential street - something Seattle has in abundance. I basically
>>>>rode
>>>>the clutch and used the back brakes to keep speed down but that seemed a
>>>>little inefficient. Compression braking wouldn't have helped in this
>>>>instance.
>>>
>>> I am not so sure about that. When I lived on the coast I rode a 500-4
>>> from Honda. It's been over thirty years but I recall second gear used
>>> to provide enough engine braking for going down those steep hills we
>>> had in Vancouver and New Westminster.
>>>
>>> My guess is unless the compression is absolutely shot in your bike you
>>> could maintain 20 mph in second gear going downhill. And if not then
>>> use the brakes, both of them.
>>>
>>> After all that's why God invented them.
>>>
>>> I wouldn't be riding the clutch though. It's not like you would be
>>> working the friction zone.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> 2000 Yamaha Venture Millennium
>>> 2004 HD Road King
>>
>>
>>Maybe it was a lack of trust by this newbie. It just seemed like on the
>>hill the bike accelerated rather quickly in 2nd just rolling. That's one
>>thing I'll have to learn and learn quickly is a sense of how fast I'm
>>going
>>without looking at the speedometer - I might have been going less quickly
>>that I thought I was.
>>
>
> You need to get those carbs sorted out before you do too much of
> anything on that bike. It's possible they are revving high and not
> allowing engine braking.
>
> Compression braking aside, throttle control on a motorcycle needs to
> be smooth and predictable. I fear you will get yourself into a fix and
> lacking predictable throttle control you won't be able to get out of
> it.
>
> Fix your bike before you get too ambitious.
>
>
> --
> 2000 Yamaha Venture Millennium
> 2004 HD Road King


I know, can't really figure out what the carbs are going to do until you
ride it and don't want to ride it with bad carburators. Idling the bike on
its stand in the garage isn't a good simulator for what it will do under
load.

All I'm doing for the time being is rides around the block, side streets and
the like. Besides, the tires are absolutely shot to hell and I won't take
that bike over 15 mph regardless. It isn't a commuter bike until the tires
are replaced - and the tires won't be replaced until the carbs are sorted
out. I have cleaner in it right now, takes a while to clean it seeing how
good the gas milage is.

I still think it's a hell of a kick in the pants to ride it though.

"Ken Abrams" <harvest_this@scum.suckers> wrote in message
news:GYH7j.7281$AR7.6225@nlpi070.nbdc.sbc.com...
>
> "Eigenvector" <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote
>
>> Maybe it was a lack of trust by this newbie. It just seemed like on the
>> hill the bike accelerated rather quickly in 2nd just rolling. That's one
>> thing I'll have to learn and learn quickly is a sense of how fast I'm
>> going without looking at the speedometer - I might have been going less
>> quickly that I thought I was.
>
> Seems to me like you need to learn 2 other things too:
>
> 1) Look at the speedometer when you need to instead of guessing
> and
> 2) Don't ask for advise based on a wild assumption.......if you want to
> get the proper advise, that is.
>
> To echo a previous post: Unless the engine is completely shot or the
> clutch is slipping badly, an inline 4 has PLENTY of engine braking......so
> much so that some models have a clutch designed to slip should the
> operator shift down too many gears at too high a speed.
>
> NOW, having said all that, if it felt like you were going too fast, then
> you probably were........for you, given your skill and experience.
>
> Riding the clutch makes matters worse not better (decreases the engine
> braking) so you should not mess with the clutch and use BOTH brakes
> lightly if needed, or shift to a lower gear when approaching said hill.
>
> If you think you need to be in 1st to go down a hill, something is
> drastically wrong; hills that steep are called cliffs! ;-)
>

Now you're probably going to tell me that Ghostrider is a comic book figure
and motorcycles can't really ride up and down the sides of buildings.

On Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:53:50 -0800, "Eigenvector"
<m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>I know, can't really figure out what the carbs are going to do until you
>ride it and don't want to ride it with bad carburators. Idling the bike on
>its stand in the garage isn't a good simulator for what it will do under
>load.
>
>All I'm doing for the time being is rides around the block, side streets and
>the like. Besides, the tires are absolutely shot to hell and I won't take
>that bike over 15 mph regardless. It isn't a commuter bike until the tires
>are replaced - and the tires won't be replaced until the carbs are sorted
>out. I have cleaner in it right now, takes a while to clean it seeing how
>good the gas milage is.
>
>I still think it's a hell of a kick in the pants to ride it though.
>

You otta park that thing until you get it road worthy.


--
2000 Yamaha Venture Millennium
2004 HD Road King

Merry Christmas To All,
And To All A Good Ride

"Eigenvector" <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote

> Now you're probably going to tell me that Ghostrider is a comic book
> figure and motorcycles can't really ride up and down the sides of
> buildings.

Blasphemy!

"Calgary" <actual.rider_remove_the_obvious_@telus.net> wrote in message
news:8qkul3dc4r8c10ne7f96egqhp09r0hap9k@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:53:50 -0800, "Eigenvector"
> <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>I know, can't really figure out what the carbs are going to do until you
>>ride it and don't want to ride it with bad carburators. Idling the bike
>>on
>>its stand in the garage isn't a good simulator for what it will do under
>>load.
>>
>>All I'm doing for the time being is rides around the block, side streets
>>and
>>the like. Besides, the tires are absolutely shot to hell and I won't take
>>that bike over 15 mph regardless. It isn't a commuter bike until the
>>tires
>>are replaced - and the tires won't be replaced until the carbs are sorted
>>out. I have cleaner in it right now, takes a while to clean it seeing how
>>good the gas milage is.
>>
>>I still think it's a hell of a kick in the pants to ride it though.
>>
>
> You otta park that thing until you get it road worthy.
>
>
> --

I believe I figured out the carburator problem on the bike finally. We'll
see if I'm full of it or not down the road, but I'm guessing its rust in the
tank. 2 laps around the block is just enough time to drain the float bowls
and when I dumped the tank today I filtered it with a coffee filter and
voila! rust flakes and grit. PLUS...... I was out of fucking gas. Amazing
how much better the bike runs when it has gas. Not having a gas gauge is
something I'm gonna have to learn to deal with REAL fast.

Eigenvector <m44_master@yahoo.com> wrote:

> PLUS...... I was out of fucking gas

<Giggle>


--
BMW K1100LT 750SS CB400F CD250 CB125 SL125
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com