OH, Yes. Saddle had a nice Ducati top line sport tourer "ST4s" that
wouldn't start, to be damned, at 40 degree temps or less. I live in
hot AZ where winter temps occasionally drop into the 20's in the
morning but he lives in Ohio near Akron, I think, where it gets lots
colder. Don't let him BS you about the GREATNESS of the Ducati brand
Sorry Saddle, I had to tell yhem the truth.

And I'll admit Yammi's suck after dumping big engine related bucks
into my low mileage (bought it with 7000 miles on the ODO) on an
otherwise pristine 84 RZ-350. It just couldn't take sustained speeds
of 80-90 with a few top speed runs for more than 50-100 miles. Last
time after it broke, I even added 50:1 premix to the adeady working
fine oil injection and didn't exceed 60MPH. It lasted all of 50 miles
before siezing the lower rod bearing on the left cylinder and turned
the piston and nearly broke the bronze rod, BTW, what the hell is a
Bronze rod doing in a high performance two stroke engine. Bronze is
weaker and heavier than steel or titanium.

Bob Nixon,

On Aug 27, 2:09�pm, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> It lasted all of 50 miles
> before siezing the lower rod bearing on the left cylinder and turned
> the piston and nearly broke the bronze rod, BTW, what the hell is a
> Bronze rod doing in a high performance two stroke engine. Bronze is
> weaker and heavier than steel or titanium.

Get real, Bob. That's a *steel* rod with a bronze-colored surface
treatment.

Bob Nixon wrote:
BTW, what the hell is a
> Bronze rod doing in a high performance two stroke engine. Bronze is
> weaker and heavier than steel or titanium.
>

It's not bronze. What you have is a lead rod coated with gold.

Time to cut back on the beers fellow, if you REALLY think that bike has
bronze rods.

On Aug 27, 3:09*pm, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:

Careful now! I'm purty sure you've never called me to task on how
often I flopped my T-500 in the mud riding back roads. Nor have you
got on me for mentioning how easily it grounds the stocks pipes when
ridden spiritedly (I was not speeding! Nor hauling ass due to a lack
of OHP intervention)
I can't recally you getting on me for my issues when a 20 y/o
aftermarket CDI failed on the wing. You could get on me for fouled
plugs on the Titan...but that would be spurious as it never fouled
plugs.
--
Keith

On Aug 28, 9:06 am, "S'mee" <stevenkei...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> On Aug 27, 3:09 pm, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Careful now! I'm purty sure you've never called me to task on how
> often I flopped my T-500 in the mud riding back roads. Nor have you
> got on me for mentioning how easily it grounds the stocks pipes when
> ridden spiritedly (I was not speeding! Nor hauling ass due to a lack
> of OHP intervention)
> I can't recally you getting on me for my issues when a 20 y/o
> aftermarket CDI failed on the wing. You could get on me for fouled
> plugs on the Titan...but that would be spurious as it never fouled
> plugs.
> --
> Keith


I'm not saying all Yammi's are dirt just from my track days
perspective they are not as reliable as the other three Japanese
brands. Plus the brand new "Sears Robuck" mail order FJR-1300 has or
had a problem with being assembled with the packing grease not removed
from the clutch plates and disks thus making for a non releasing
(dangerous) sticky clutch from the factory. I could go on with
examples of bad Yammi's but they're obviosly not all that bad. But
the R1,R6 get top billing for being squid magnets dispite their no
longer dominant in racing they had back when the R1 1st came out. That
distintion now belong to the Suzuki GSXR1000 as has since about 2002.

Bob Nixon..

On Aug 28, 1:21*pm, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Aug 28, 9:06 am, "S'mee" <stevenkei...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Aug 27, 3:09 pm, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Careful now! I'm purty sure you've never called me to task on how
> > often I flopped my T-500 in the mud riding back roads. Nor have you
> > got on me for mentioning how easily it grounds the stocks pipes when
> > ridden spiritedly (I was not speeding! Nor hauling ass due to a lack
> > of OHP intervention)
> > * I can't recally you getting on me for my issues when a 20 y/o
> > aftermarket CDI failed on the wing. You could get on me for fouled
> > plugs on the Titan...but that would be spurious as it never fouled
> > plugs.
> > --
> > Keith
>
> I'm not saying all Yammi's are dirt just from my track days
> perspective they are not as reliable as the other three Japanese
> brands. Plus the brand new "Sears Robuck" mail order FJR-1300 has or
> had a problem with being assembled with the packing grease not removed
> from the clutch plates and disks thus making for a non releasing
> (dangerous) sticky clutch from the factory. I could go on with
> examples of *bad Yammi's but they're obviosly not all that bad. But
> the R1,R6 get top billing for being squid magnets dispite their no
> longer dominant in racing they had back when the R1 1st came out. That
> distintion now belong to the Suzuki GSXR1000 as has since about 2002.

I'm just teasing you Bob! I wont like if I found a barn fresh Seca 750
Turbo I'd snatch it in a heartbeat...then pray for parts. Flog it raw,
restore it and find a chuH^H^H^H interested buyer. 8^) never thought I
was sick enough to want one eh? All things being equal I'd be torn the
GSXR750 or a Ural/IMZ Upgear. Am I sick or just getting older?

--
Keith
I think I need to drink on that...

Bob Nixon wrote:

> brands. Plus the brand new "Sears Robuck" mail order FJR-1300 has or

I really get suspicious of people who claim one brand of Japansese bike
is consistenly inferior to another. Sure, individual models have their
problems, and I know as well as anyone that the FJR has had its share,
but for the most part they have been well sorted out. On balance I
would say the big four Jap makers are more or less equal in quality.

Your "mail order" tag hasn't applied to the FJR for quite a while. FJRs
are plentiful in dealer showrooms, in fact the dealership where I bought
my '07 (for a hefty discount from MSRP, and I just walked in and bought
it) recently had a new AE model on the floor for $10.6k, which is about
$4k under MSRP. The auto clutch model just isn't selling as well as the
standard manual clutch version, which really doesn't surprise me given
the target audience. That feature might sell really well to the Gold
Wing riders.

--
'07 FJR13AW '99 EX250-F13
OMF #7

On Aug 28, 12:39 pm, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:
> Bob Nixon wrote:
> > brands. Plus the brand new "Sears Robuck" mail order FJR-1300 has or
>
> I really get suspicious of people who claim one brand of Japansese bike
> is consistenly inferior to another. Sure, individual models have their
> problems, and I know as well as anyone that the FJR has had its share,
> but for the most part they have been well sorted out. On balance I
> would say the big four Jap makers are more or less equal in quality.
>
> Your "mail order" tag hasn't applied to the FJR for quite a while. FJRs
> are plentiful in dealer showrooms, in fact the dealership where I bought
> my '07 (for a hefty discount from MSRP, and I just walked in and bought
> it) recently had a new AE model on the floor for $10.6k, which is about
> $4k under MSRP. The auto clutch model just isn't selling as well as the
> standard manual clutch version, which really doesn't surprise me given
> the target audience. That feature might sell really well to the Gold
> Wing riders.
>
> --
> '07 FJR13AW '99 EX250-F13
> OMF #7


Thanks for the update. & mostly I agree with you on reliability.
Saddle loves his FJR so II'm just playing with him a bit. The FJR has
just about cornered the Sport touring (a bit large compared to the
Sprint and VFR) in the USA and likely for good reasons.

Bob Nixon..

On Aug 27, 5:09*pm, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> OH, Yes. Saddle had a nice Ducati top line sport tourer "ST4s" that
> wouldn't start, to be damned, at 40 degree temps or less. I live in
> hot AZ where winter temps occasionally drop into the 20's in the
> morning but he lives in Ohio near Akron, I think, where it gets lots
> colder. Don't let him BS you about the GREATNESS of the Ducati brand
> Sorry Saddle, I had to tell yhem the truth.

How quaint, now I "lie" because when responding SPECIFICALLY to
reasons why Ducatis cost more than Suzuki starter bikes I didn't
mention that one of my two ST4s was difficult to start when it was
30something°F in the morning.

> And I'll admit Yammi's suck after dumping big engine related bucks
> into my low mileage (bought it with 7000 miles on the ODO) on an
> otherwise pristine 84 RZ-350. It just couldn't take sustained speeds
> of 80-90 with a few top speed runs for more than 50-100 miles. Last
> time after it broke, I even added 50:1 premix to the adeady working
> fine oil injection and didn't exceed 60MPH. It lasted all of 50 miles
> before siezing the lower rod bearing on the left cylinder and turned
> the piston and nearly broke the bronze rod, BTW, what the hell is a
> Bronze rod doing in a high performance two stroke engine. Bronze is
> weaker and heavier than steel or titanium.

Why did Honda put undersized Voltage Regulators on VFRs for several
years? Why ask why, they are ultimately made by people who are
fallible. Shit happens. Both my Yamis run great.

On Aug 28, 3:21*pm, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Aug 28, 9:06 am, "S'mee" <stevenkei...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Aug 27, 3:09 pm, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Careful now! I'm purty sure you've never called me to task on how
> > often I flopped my T-500 in the mud riding back roads. Nor have you
> > got on me for mentioning how easily it grounds the stocks pipes when
> > ridden spiritedly (I was not speeding! Nor hauling ass due to a lack
> > of OHP intervention)
> > * I can't recally you getting on me for my issues when a 20 y/o
> > aftermarket CDI failed on the wing. You could get on me for fouled
> > plugs on the Titan...but that would be spurious as it never fouled
> > plugs.
> > --
> > Keith
>
> I'm not saying all Yammi's are dirt just from my track days
> perspective they are not as reliable as the other three Japanese
> brands.

Based on Bob's anecdotes. Note the lack of any statistical
information here.

> Plus the brand new "Sears Robuck" mail order FJR-1300 has or
> had a problem with being assembled with the packing grease not removed
> from the clutch plates and disks thus making for a non releasing
> (dangerous) sticky clutch from the factory.

Mine was bought off the showroom floor after being assembled by a
local grease monkey. Apparently, being an especially well trained
grease monkey, he must of spent hours disassembling and cleaning any
reminants of packing grease from my clutch plates as they don't stick
a bit. My ZRX1200 OTOH...

> I could go on with
> examples of *bad Yammi's but they're obviosly not all that bad. But
> the R1,R6 get top billing for being squid magnets dispite their no
> longer dominant in racing they had back when the R1 1st came out. That
> distintion now belong to the Suzuki GSXR1000 as has since about 2002.

Tell it to Rossi.

On Aug 28, 3:52*pm, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Aug 28, 12:39 pm, Mark Olson <ols...@tiny.invalid> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Bob Nixon wrote:
> > > brands. Plus the brand new "Sears Robuck" mail order FJR-1300 has or
>
> > I really get suspicious of people who claim one brand of Japansese bike
> > is consistenly inferior to another. *Sure, individual models have their
> > problems, and I know as well as anyone that the FJR has had its share,
> > but for the most part they have been well sorted out. *On balance I
> > would say the big four Jap makers are more or less equal in quality.
>
> > Your "mail order" tag hasn't applied to the FJR for quite a while. *FJRs
> > are plentiful in dealer showrooms, in fact the dealership where I bought
> > my '07 (for a hefty discount from MSRP, and I just walked in and bought
> > it) recently had a new AE model on the floor for $10.6k, which is about
> > $4k under MSRP. *The auto clutch model just isn't selling as well as the
> > standard manual clutch version, which really doesn't surprise me given
> > the target audience. *That feature might sell really well to the Gold
> > Wing riders.
>
> > --
> > '07 FJR13AW *'99 EX250-F13
> > OMF #7
>
> Thanks for the update. & mostly I agree with you on reliability.
> Saddle loves his FJR so II'm just playing with him a bit. The FJR has
> just about cornered the Sport touring *(a bit large compared to the
> Sprint and VFR) in the USA and likely for good reasons.

I didn't love it immediately. There were a couple of minor issues.
One I still need to address is removing one of the throttle return
springs. Damn thing irritates the carpel tunnel nerve everytime I get
on it. The Warrior has FAR superior throttle action.

On Aug 28, 4:13*pm, saddlebag <saddle...@aol.com> wrote:
SNIP
> > I could go on with
> > examples of *bad Yammi's but they're obviosly not all that bad. But
> > the R1,R6 get top billing for being squid magnets dispite their no
> > longer dominant in racing they had back when the R1 1st came out. That
> > distintion now belong to the Suzuki GSXR1000 as has since about 2002.
>
> Tell it to Rossi.-

Why? He doesn't race the R1 yet... His bike isn't too terribly prone
to breakage. I wont mention how superior the Bridgestones are compared
to the Michelins. BTW I love ya' bro but that dog done caught fire the
straw was so dry.
--
Keith

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 14:09:46 -0700 (PDT), Bob Nixon
<bigrex2005@yahoo.com> wrote:

>OH, Yes. Saddle had a nice Ducati top line sport tourer "ST4s" that
>wouldn't start, to be damned, at 40 degree temps or less. I live in
>hot AZ where winter temps occasionally drop into the 20's in the
>morning but he lives in Ohio near Akron, I think, where it gets lots
>colder. Don't let him BS you about the GREATNESS of the Ducati brand
>Sorry Saddle, I had to tell yhem the truth.
>
>And I'll admit Yammi's suck after dumping big engine related bucks
>into my low mileage (bought it with 7000 miles on the ODO) on an
>otherwise pristine 84 RZ-350. It just couldn't take sustained speeds
>of 80-90 with a few top speed runs for more than 50-100 miles. Last
>time after it broke, I even added 50:1 premix to the adeady working
>fine oil injection and didn't exceed 60MPH. It lasted all of 50 miles
>before siezing the lower rod bearing on the left cylinder and turned
>the piston and nearly broke the bronze rod, BTW, what the hell is a
>Bronze rod doing in a high performance two stroke engine. Bronze is
>weaker and heavier than steel or titanium.
>
>Bob Nixon,


I've built lots of cranks for these bikes and they would routinely
last at least a thousand RACING miles. They do have to have to be
properly trued and have sufficient clearances everywhere, but there's
no reason why you shouldn't get lots of street miles out of one of
these things.

Bill Smith

"There are four kinds of homicide; felonious, excusable, justifiable,
and praiseworthy"

Ambrose Bierce

On Aug 28, 5:14*pm, Bill Smith <quand...@newsguy.com> wrote:

SNIP

> I've built lots of cranks for these bikes and they would routinely
> last at least a thousand RACING miles. They do have to have to be
> properly trued and have sufficient clearances everywhere, but there's
> no reason why you shouldn't get lots of street miles out of one of
> these things.

Bill not to nitpick but Bob had a rod break in half NOT a crank.

--
Keith

On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 17:58:06 -0700 (PDT), "S'mee"
<stevenkeith2@hotmail.com> wrote:

>On Aug 28, 5:14*pm, Bill Smith <quand...@newsguy.com> wrote:
>
>SNIP
>
>> I've built lots of cranks for these bikes and they would routinely
>> last at least a thousand RACING miles. They do have to have to be
>> properly trued and have sufficient clearances everywhere, but there's
>> no reason why you shouldn't get lots of street miles out of one of
>> these things.
>
>Bill not to nitpick but Bob had a rod break in half NOT a crank.

If you'll take another look at what he posted, the big end rod
bearing failed and the rod nearly broke. These cranks are pressed
together assemblies, the big end of the rod is one peice, no rod
bolts, thus it's part of the crankshaft assembly which is what I
should have said instead of crank. Back in the days when I did a lot
of these things we just called them cranks. Take a look at this
schematic;

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...l-1984/o/m7613



Bill Smith

On Aug 28, 10:30 pm, Bill Smith <squand...@comcast.net> wrote:
> On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 17:58:06 -0700 (PDT), "S'mee"
>
> <stevenkei...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >On Aug 28, 5:14 pm, Bill Smith <quand...@newsguy.com> wrote:
>
> >SNIP
>
> >> I've built lots of cranks for these bikes and they would routinely
> >> last at least a thousand RACING miles. They do have to have to be
> >> properly trued and have sufficient clearances everywhere, but there's
> >> no reason why you shouldn't get lots of street miles out of one of
> >> these things.
>
> >Bill not to nitpick but Bob had a rod break in half NOT a crank.
>
> If you'll take another look at what he posted, the big end rod
> bearing failed and the rod nearly broke. These cranks are pressed
> together assemblies, the big end of the rod is one peice, no rod
> bolts, thus it's part of the crankshaft assembly which is what I
> should have said instead of crank. Back in the days when I did a lot
> of these things we just called them cranks. Take a look at this
> schematic;
>
> http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...orcycle-rz350l...
>
> Bill Smith


Couldn't a frozen piston have caused all this rod bending and bearing
torn up as well? Say it happened slowly and not in a few milliseconds.
The sides of the piston are gauled too. I should send some photo's as
it's right here with me.

Bob Nixon..

On Fri, 29 Aug 2008 08:45:43 -0700 (PDT), Bob Nixon
<bigrex2005@yahoo.com> wrote:

>On Aug 28, 10:30 pm, Bill Smith <squand...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 17:58:06 -0700 (PDT), "S'mee"
>>
>> <stevenkei...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> >On Aug 28, 5:14 pm, Bill Smith <quand...@newsguy.com> wrote:
>>
>> >SNIP
>>
>> >> I've built lots of cranks for these bikes and they would routinely
>> >> last at least a thousand RACING miles. They do have to have to be
>> >> properly trued and have sufficient clearances everywhere, but there's
>> >> no reason why you shouldn't get lots of street miles out of one of
>> >> these things.
>>
>> >Bill not to nitpick but Bob had a rod break in half NOT a crank.
>>
>> If you'll take another look at what he posted, the big end rod
>> bearing failed and the rod nearly broke. These cranks are pressed
>> together assemblies, the big end of the rod is one peice, no rod
>> bolts, thus it's part of the crankshaft assembly which is what I
>> should have said instead of crank. Back in the days when I did a lot
>> of these things we just called them cranks. Take a look at this
>> schematic;
>>
>> http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...orcycle-rz350l...
>>
>> Bill Smith
>
>
>Couldn't a frozen piston have caused all this rod bending and bearing
>torn up as well? Say it happened slowly and not in a few milliseconds.
>The sides of the piston are gauled too. I should send some photo's as
>it's right here with me.
>
>Bob Nixon..


Now that you've mentioned the piston seizure in connection with all
this, it starting to give me some ideas.

This bike was used when you bought it, so you probably don't know much
about it's history.

Piston seizures can be caused by too lean a mixture, which is caused
by air leaks into the engine or improper carb jetting, improper
lubrication, and improper ignition timing (did you hear any
detonation?). When this happens a lot of stress is placed on the rod,
but one seizure won't necessarily cause a big end rod bearing to fail,
multiple seizures can lead to it, however. They usually happen
relatively slowly on the street and almost instantly on the track. If
the bike is leaned over at all, it almost always results in a crash
when racing. I got in the habit of pressure testing every engine I put
together and would occasionally discover a leak that would have
resulted in a seizure without an apparent cause. Plug up the intake
and exhaust ports (both sides, it's important), pressurize the whole
assembly to about 10 psi and if it leaks down at greater than 1 psi a
minute, you've got a problem.

Big end rod failures can be caused by bad lubrication (bad oil or not
enough of it, or not enough clearance between the thrust washers and
the rod big end.

You've got a problem here with multiple possible causes, so you'll
have to check everything.

If your pipes and air filters are stock, make sure the jetting is too.
If it's richer than stock and you've got good throttle response don't
lean it out, leave it. All the jets, idle circuit, slide, jet needle
and needle jet combination, not just the main jets. If it's falling on
it's face when you try to accelerate that usually means it's too lean
somewhere on the bottom for whatever reason.

Check the ignition timing, make sure you have the right heat range in
the plugs you are using.

Use a proven oil and make sure your pump is putting out what it
should. You can disconnect it and run pre-mix but keep in mind that
some richer jetting might be required because this leans the fuel
mixture. Oil displaces gasoline.

I put exhaust gas temperature gauges on my race bikes, they are a
great tuning and diagnostic tool.

All this probably gave you more questions than answers, so email me at
squandary at gmail dot com and we can discuss each issue as it arises.
A lot of people give up with thorny problems like this, which is
probably what happened with this bikes previous owner, but RZs are
great fun to ride when they're right. It is a tinkerer's bike, though.

It's been years since I messed with these things, my era was the 70s
and 80s, (lots of TZs and RDs) and I don't know if a some of the
products I used, Yamalube R and Yamabond engine case sealant, are even
still available so more modern substitutes might have to be found.
Send me the pictures.

Bill Smith

Patience, N. A form of despair, disguised as a virtue.

Ambrose Bierce

On Aug 29, 8:45 am, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Couldn't a frozen piston have caused all this rod bending and bearing
> torn up as well? Say it happened slowly and not in a few milliseconds.
> The sides of the piston are gauled too. I should send some photo's as
> it's right here with me.

Yes, a seized piston can cause the rod to bend or break, and so will a
hydraulic lock from coolant getting into the combustion chamber.

I bought a broken Water Buffalo from some guys who'd tried to race it
in the Ontario 6-Hour.

It was jetted too lean, the timing was too far advanced, and the water
pump was clogged up with some kind of fiber, apparently from the
Suzuki radiator leak stop they'd dumped into the radiator filler.

After several practice laps, the machine was boiling the water that
wasn't circulating, the temperature gauge was pegged out and, when I
rode the bike, I could hear the peculiar groaning sound an engine
makes when it's running too hot, too lean, and timing too far
advanced.

It melted a hole in the center piston during qualifying, the piston
seized, and the center rod snapped.

But it was glorious while it lasted, it was faster than the GS750 four
strokes.

A GT750 Water Buffalo's engine is built a lot heavier than an RZ350
engine, and it stood up to hours of abuse before breaking.

I repaired the broken GT750 motor, installed it in another chassis and
later sold it to an enthusiast who rode it in the La Carrera Classic
from Ensenada to San Felipe in under two hours.

On Aug 29, 10:47 am, "." <yefelnag...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Aug 29, 8:45 am, Bob Nixon <bigrex2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Couldn't a frozen piston have caused all this rod bending and bearing
> > torn up as well? Say it happened slowly and not in a few milliseconds.
> > The sides of the piston are gauled too. I should send some photo's as
> > it's right here with me.
>
> Yes, a seized piston can cause the rod to bend or break, and so will a
> hydraulic lock from coolant getting into the combustion chamber.
>
> I bought a broken Water Buffalo from some guys who'd tried to race it
> in the Ontario 6-Hour.
>
> It was jetted too lean, the timing was too far advanced, and the water
> pump was clogged up with some kind of fiber, apparently from the
> Suzuki radiator leak stop they'd dumped into the radiator filler.
>
> After several practice laps, the machine was boiling the water that
> wasn't circulating, the temperature gauge was pegged out and, when I
> rode the bike, I could hear the peculiar groaning sound an engine
> makes when it's running too hot, too lean, and timing too far
> advanced.
>
> It melted a hole in the center piston during qualifying, the piston
> seized, and the center rod snapped.
>
> But it was glorious while it lasted, it was faster than the GS750 four
> strokes.
>
> A GT750 Water Buffalo's engine is built a lot heavier than an RZ350
> engine, and it stood up to hours of abuse before breaking.
>
> I repaired the broken GT750 motor, installed it in another chassis and
> later sold it to an enthusiast who rode it in the La Carrera Classic
> from Ensenada to San Felipe in under two hours.


Bill, thanks for all your inputs on this problem but the engine is out
of the bike now and supposidly the Pheonix Banshee GURU is working
"albiet slowly" on the fix. He's already replaced the crank and is now
working on oversized pistons/sleeves (~375cc) because it's already
been resleeved @ LA sleeve and the botched the job. So he's putting
new oversized sleeves in. I'll pass all your info down to him but if
he's a valley Guru, he should know about pressure leaks, overlean
mixtures and precise alignment of the crank, rod & pistons. Thanks
much. And at my age and heath (deer hit me 4 years ago, one leg and
1/2 a heart) I couldn't take something like this on myself..
PS. I picked up a slightly used naked SV-650 with RS3 yosh pipe so I'm
not without a ride.

Bob Nixon..