platypus <monotreme@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>
> frag wrote:
> > T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
> >>
> >> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
> >> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
> >> pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when
> >> I find it) ;-)
> >
> > IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a
> > fish drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).
>
> "Prime" actually means "Open, Even When The Engine Isn't Running", and is
> found on vacuum-operated taps. I think you're thinking of the choke.
>

Ah right, thanks. Every days a school day, etc.

I knew it had something to do with priming the carbs before starting from
dry.

Do bikes that have vaccum operated fuel taps have the usual float and cut
off valve in the "where the float would go if it had one" bowl?

I'm trying to think of a reason you'd put the fuel tap onto "Off" (whether
by tap or vaccum), all I can come up with are maintenance, if somethings
fucked and leaking, an accident or for storage / transport?


--
frag
Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>
> On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 13:10:38 +0100, frag <news4@ukrm.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >Chuck a lighted match in a little bit and see if it says Wuff.
>
> Not sure it would have Frag as even though it didn't smell just like
> oil I'm not sure it was that fumey either. Mind you, had what little
> he probably had in the tank actually leaked through the carbs and into
> the engine may have long since lost all it's lighter fractions
> (benzene etc).

Ah well, oil is cheap. I would have filled it with the cheapest orrid new
stuff I could find, run it for a week, then do the same, then change it and
filter for decent stuff. Flush the engine out.

> Just think how fast it will go with some real fresh fuel in it eh!

Heh, 98 RON.

> >IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a fish
> >drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).
>
> I can understand how it could be a problem if you have a stuck float
> valve (and the fuel runs past it even when the engine isn't running)
> but not if left on when running normally Frag?

Nope, ignore that, me getting my chokes and primes mixed up.


--
frag
Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity

frag wrote:
>
> Do bikes that have vaccum operated fuel taps have the usual float and cut
> off valve in the "where the float would go if it had one" bowl?

Yes. The tap just lets fuel flow, it doesn't regulate it at all.

> I'm trying to think of a reason you'd put the fuel tap onto "Off" (whether
> by tap or vaccum), all I can come up with are maintenance, if somethings
> fucked and leaking, an accident or for storage / transport?

Yes to all of those.

--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 14:18:54 +0100, frag <news4@ukrm.co.uk> wrote:

>T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>>
>> On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 13:10:38 +0100, frag <news4@ukrm.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> >Chuck a lighted match in a little bit and see if it says Wuff.
>>
>> Not sure it would have Frag as even though it didn't smell just like
>> oil I'm not sure it was that fumey either. Mind you, had what little
>> he probably had in the tank actually leaked through the carbs and into
>> the engine may have long since lost all it's lighter fractions
>> (benzene etc).
>
>Ah well, oil is cheap. I would have filled it with the cheapest orrid new
>stuff I could find, run it for a week, then do the same, then change it and
>filter for decent stuff. Flush the engine out.

Yep, that's my plan Frag. ;-)

I first made sure it would run (but didn't run or rev it etc) then
drained the 'oil' out. I span it over a couple more times whilst it
was draining and rocked it both sides to get as much out as possible.
I then re-filled it with some Morrises bike oil I happened to have
kicking about and ran it a bit longer and revved it a bit to ensure it
all got spread about a bit. I've also ordered a magnetic sump nut and
oil filter for when I get to the next stage.
>
>> Just think how fast it will go with some real fresh fuel in it eh!
>
>Heh, 98 RON.

Do do Ron Ron? ;-)
>
>> >IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a fish
>> >drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).
>>
>> I can understand how it could be a problem if you have a stuck float
>> valve (and the fuel runs past it even when the engine isn't running)
>> but not if left on when running normally Frag?
>
>Nope, ignore that, me getting my chokes and primes mixed up.

Ok.

My petrol strimmer has a nice primer pump but the hedge cutter has a
vacum operated fuel pump and no real way of priming it easily. A bit
of damp start up the inlet manifold / filter spins it up enough to get
the fuel through quickly though. ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 05:49:12 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
<totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

>On 26 Aug, 13:01, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>
>>
>> Cool. So would you say it is an 'interesting' bike to ride (today) and
>> why please?
>
>It makes a nice noise. It's amazingly economical. It's just 'fun'.

Oh, ok, well I'll look forward to that then. ;-)

Re the economy TOG. What I have read so far it suggests about 50 mpg?
FWIW that's about the same as my 1000 cc BM and 1900cc Rover 218SD? CB
Two Fifty about 75 mpg?
>>
>> If there were any ergonomic adjustments you would make to it, what
>> would they be?
>>
>I'd change the bars for something a bit lower. Maybe Telefix.

Lower, why?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. I just phoned my friendly tame parts supplier:

4 x air box to carb rubbers ~ £18 (for 4) [1]
2 x caliper seals ~£8 (for the two).
1 x new front brake lever ~£6.
Rear master cyl parts available separately.

[1] if they are very much softer new it might save a lot of mucking
about (hot water etc)?

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:

> Re the economy TOG. What I have read so far it suggests about 50 mpg?

Overall, yes. But it's very easy to get closer to 60mpg if you don't
exceed 80 very often.

>
> FWIW that's about the same as my 1000 cc BM and 1900cc Rover 218SD? CB
> Two Fifty about 75 mpg?

I'd expect a little less for the 250 - maybe 60-65mpg.


--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 03:52:34 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
<totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

>On 26 Aug, 08:21, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Also as you seem to know such things <g>, why does the logbook call
>> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
>> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?
>>
>GPz is the sort of 'public' model name. 'ZX' is Kawasaki's own ID
>scheme. Confusing, I know.

Not unusual, though.

I currently own an SC25, an SC22 and a CB1.

Okay, the last one's obvious, but the other two aren't.


--
Salad Dodger
"Haffely, Gaffely, Gaffely, Gonward."

Simian wrote:

> > > You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that
> > > reads from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I
> > > suppose.
> >
> > Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,
> > that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
> > mine)? ;-)
>
> Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung. On the left fork there's a
> tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think.
> Put too much in and the forks over extend and top out, too little and
> they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to
> check to make sure.

It's 8.5 psi on the GT750 but has bugger all effect. Getting the rears
right 25 psi does.

The Guzzi's front forks are 25 psi which does have an effect.

You choose. Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front forks
on the Kawasaki. The GT doesn't have anti dive though

--
Simon

Eddie wrote:

> My GT750 was a Z750-P5, IIRC.

It is and you do.

--
Simon

On 26 Aug 2008 23:22:49 GMT, "sweller" <sweller@mztech.fsnet.co.uk>
wrote:

>Simian wrote:

>> Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung. On the left fork there's a
>> tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think.
>> Put too much in and the forks over extend and top out, too little and
>> they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to
>> check to make sure.
>
>It's 8.5 psi on the GT750 but has bugger all effect. Getting the rears
>right 25 psi does.
>
>The Guzzi's front forks are 25 psi which does have an effect.
>
>You choose. Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front forks
>on the Kawasaki. The GT doesn't have anti dive though

The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.

And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever
had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the
overall handling.

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:02:17 +0200, Ace <b.rogers@ifrance.com> wrote:


>The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
>it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.
>
>And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever
>had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the
>overall handling.

Is it worth removing though Ace (mention of substituting bits) or
should I just leave it all on there?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when
the front brake is applied?

T i m wrote:

> On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:02:17 +0200, Ace <b.rogers@ifrance.com> wrote:
>
>
> > The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
> > it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.
> >
> > And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had
> > ever had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add
> > to the overall handling.
>
> Is it worth removing though Ace (mention of substituting bits) or
> should I just leave it all on there?
>
> p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when
> the front brake is applied?

In theory when the front brake is applied brake fluid pressure forces a
plunger down in a seperate chamber which closes off a valve on the
front of the fork leg - this limits the flow of fork oil as the forks
try to compress under braking in proportion to how much brake pressure
is applied. In practise this doesn't happen; the plunger sticks and
this leads to the forks locking up or the anti-dive just not working at
all, or working randomly. This is an MOT fail as they test the
anti-dive as well.

There's a simple solution that requires the fabrication of a pair of
plates to blank off the plungers from the forks These plates need a
groove maching in to allow the fork oil to move between two chambers in
the forks. It's simple to do and I'll be making/fitting them to a
GPZ750 Turbo very soon.

--
Lozzo
SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka
and a shit load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage
I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:51:15 +0100, T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:

>On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:02:17 +0200, Ace <b.rogers@ifrance.com> wrote:
>
>
>>The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
>>it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.
>>
>>And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever
>>had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the
>>overall handling.
>
>Is it worth removing though Ace (mention of substituting bits) or
>should I just leave it all on there?

I never bothered, but I only had the bike for a few months before it
began to crumble[1] round me and was replaced by a GPX600. It never
caused my any problems, but I've no idea if this was just good fortune
or not.

>p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when
>the front brake is applied?

Something like that. Lozzo's reply will give the technical details,
I'm sure.

[1] It had done >30k miles, IIRC, and was fairly ratty when I bought
it. Then I used it for a 150 miles/day commute, so it didn't take very
long at all for stuff[2] to start wearing out.
[2] Rear sub-frame broke off on one side, with evidence of a previous
weld becoming visible. Clutch started slipping. And basically it was
just shagged.


--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

On Aug 25, 6:45*pm, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)

Oh, yes, of course--they are a 550/4.

<snip>

> I didn't run it for long because I was suspicious of how much 'oil'
> was in the engine (you had to lay it over (away) to see the level in
> the sight glass) and when I drained and re-filled it again it seemed
> to take half as much as I took out (and probably where all the petrol
> had gone. *Once I've got it a bit tidier I'll change the oil and
> filter again properly).

I think you should be looking at about 2.8L as some
gets caught in the filter. Is the case stamped 3.4?

A drain and refill (no filter) from 10W/40 to 20W/50
for the baking summer roads took a little under 3L.

The level may vary also with where the engine stops
in its cycle - or this could be just down to me priming
mine more than necessary (or not...see below IRT
your question about fuel taps).

> Fired it up, all pipes running hot and it seems to tick over and rev
> up a treat .. ;-)
>
>
> Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay?

If the lever is usable I would recommend local breakers'
first stop - once you've worked out how to get the lever
on and off - as they may well be open to you trying a few
for size until you find one which fits.

Or check out the small ads in the bike press (MCN).

I understand a scheme was prototyped whereby a ring
(in a good sense, not the making stolen bikes reappear
in untraceable guises sense) of reputable breakers were
linked to bulk-text (SMS) and parts could be ordered
from a nationwide network with one call.

On the other hand a guy I kind of know loosely and have
no reason to doubt recommended eBay as he found a
guy with spares for his Canadian import within an hour.

> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
> tighten it up please?

No idea. There's also a guy who specialises in Haynes
manuals for everything if anyone knows his number.

> I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light
> flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge
> actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so
> I know the display does).
>
> £35 to transfer the Comp insurance from the CB Two Fifty to this and
> about £100 /pa normally (£97 TPFT so not worth dropping back).
>
> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?

At the risk of either duplicating information or being accused
of being a misinformational troll 8?). my knowledge of this
goes back to when I used a Suzuki vacuum tap.

At first sight they are identical but ISTR, as it was a dealer
I knew, that Suzukis you prime every time you start them
and Kawasakis you prime once, until the tank runs out.

Leaving the tap in the PRI position may be what caused
petrol flow into the block in the first place - hence my comments
about oil level changing - it may not do, it may just be eked
out as a petroil mix.

I thought someone locally was taking the mick out of my
yearsof riding two-strokes when my back was turned when
I could smell the petrol in the oil pan...but on reflection
mayhaps not.

I started off priming mine before every start, as per Suzukis,
then one morning when I forgot about the tap and just
pressed start and it slowly eased into life with no throttle
and no choke, I took to only priming it when the filler cap
had been opened or I'd heard the vacuum hissing, as it
does on a hot day when parked up.

Right now I just leave it set to "ON".

I thought for a while I was getting better fuel economy by
priming it every start, and this was to do with the integrity
of the vacuums, but despite not having had a comparable
long (150miles+) journey on which to assess it since, I'm
not actually convinced of this now.

Fuel just runs through when it is on prime until the float
overflows, SFAICT. Whereas in "ON" or "RES" is needs
to be drawn.

You will however need to prime it from dry, and after the
tank has been removed. As such, if you run your main
tank off you would need to prime it before you can use
the RES--no idea of capacity, not needed it, probably
about 10 miles.

Do check it out but you may find with them being vaccum
carbs that you have a dual cable accelerator. It is entirely
possible one of these is a "decelerator" which actively
closes the flow.

In short, there is no "OFF" position on Kawasaki or
Suzuki vaccum fuel taps (other makes? I dunno).

If it is left in "PRI" fuel will run out all over the place.

If it is left in "ON" or "RES" the fuel will need to be pulled
out. As such, when you remove the tank, make sure it is
in "ON" or "RES", and, paradoxical as it may seem, the fuel
will stay in the tank.

You will probably need to remove the tank to check the
state of the plugs, for example, which thankfully seem
OK.

I don't suppose you can tell from a description whether
my Scottoiler has ever been used or whether there's just
a wee bit of oil in it from whoever installed it? It looks
pristine, and I'm not convinced it's actually fitted and
have no docs or instructions, or any idea whether it's
a straight drip-drip-drip, an electric graduated drip or a
vaccum-linked drip. Or even if it's the right one for the
machine. So old lubes and solvents and elbow grease
and grease, and old lubes, and solvents are my current
solution...

> All the best ..
>
> T i m
>
> p.s. As I went over to get the 550 he was just loading an old XT125
> onto another neighbours scrap lorry. It had been running but was
> nicked and a bit bashed about (couldn't start it, got angry with it)
> and found locally again. *I *nearly* asked him if I could take that as
> well but with umpteen bikes and 1,000,000 other things I'm supposed to
> be sorting ... <sigh>

May be duplicating what's already in the thread but that's
my two cents.

G DAEB
COPYRIGHT (C) 2008 SIPSTON
--

On Aug 25, 6:45*pm, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)
>

Ah, one thing I read somewhere recently but
which really threw me my first time on a 4
is there just isn't any engine braking, hardly.

Even compared to strokers there's very little.

I thought the clutch was dicky.

But no, this is normal.

If no-one's told you this already I wish someone
had me.

No, I didn't have webternet facapabilty at the
time or I might have asked.

Back on a twin though and I kind of can't
help thinking once the BMW I've decided is
my next bike to buy (any so long as it will
run and run) I may go for a very large bore
single.

I'm not convinced I like 4s, but time will tell.

G DAEB
COPYRIGHT (C) 2008 SIPSTON
--

On Aug 26, 8:21*am, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
> On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 07:16:32 +0100, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk
>
> (The Older Gentleman) wrote:
> >T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>
> >> As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but
> >> the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike
> >> was first registered (rather than built etc)?
>
> >It's quite likely to be an A2 that spent some time in a showroom. It
> >doesn't matter, anyway: the differences will only be something minor
> >like decal colours.
>
> Ah, brilliant, thanks TOG.
>
> Also as you seem to know such things <g>, *why does the logbook call
> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?
>
> FEIW, when doing an online insurance quote I chose for the model ..
>
> KAWASAKI GPZ 550 Sports 1981-1991 553cc Manual Petrol
>
> .. *which was the best / nearest match but wasn't sure if the 'sports'
> bit was right (was there a sports model, is mine it etc)?
>
> All the best ..

Having been instantly flamed for not doing my
homework, and with an eye on insurance claims,
is this not the kind of homework that finding your
local Kawasaki dealer could get you a pass grade
in?

OE should always be used, despite you could
take an impression of the existing brake lever
with a large supermarket cob or wodge of papier
mache then fashion one from araldite...you should
declare the mod lest a valuer decide not to pay
out in the event of a write-off.

Things to consider with eBay (any mail order)
are is the P&P and comission really worth it for
second hand parts that are likely to be in a breakers'?

GPZ550s aren't exactly a rarity (albeit levers
are often damaged when the things blow over
in the wind and so on).

Your log book may indicate it is an import, or
it could be linked to the engine number, or it
could just be Kawasaki eccentricity--as various
other models aren't on the log book what they
say they are on the Decals.

But yes the GPZs were considered a "sports"
(rather than track or race) bike.

> T i m
>
> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
> that was mad)? :-(

Dunno. Probably not. I prefer Suzuki cams to
any other Jap. I always found Yammies a bit
sluggish too. Kawasakis tend to be good high
revvers when you've re-run it in (just take it
gently for the first 1500-3000 miles).

Don't be too worried if the gearbox (as opposed
to the clutch) is a bit clunky to start with as the
cogs will move about a little. I found a bit like
cars/vand/trucks that it's possible to improve the
meshing by being careful about changes.

Also, do remember Kawasaki's pedigree in the
snowmobile and jetski sectors before you start
to worry too much about a bit of rain - or even
150 miles of persistent downpour.

Bit minimalist here on the expert guidance though
as a first impression.

Maybe more people ought to get speech to text.

I have a high WPM, unless you (all) do too it
probably takes me less time to type this than
it would take you to think it. So, yes, I have plenty
of time to enjoy my life as well. In fact, I'm off for
a spin now.

G DAEB
COPYRIGHT (C) 2008 SIPSTON
--

On 27 Aug 2008 09:01:37 GMT, "Lozzo" <lozzo@lozzo.org.uk> wrote:


>> p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when
>> the front brake is applied?
>
>In theory when the front brake is applied brake fluid pressure forces a
>plunger down in a seperate chamber which closes off a valve on the
>front of the fork leg - this limits the flow of fork oil as the forks
>try to compress under braking in proportion to how much brake pressure
>is applied.

Ah, so I was right then. ;-)

> In practise this doesn't happen; the plunger sticks and
>this leads to the forks locking up or the anti-dive just not working at
>all, or working randomly.

So is this sticking a basic design fault (as in it doesn't work from
new) or something that could be resolved (if only temporarily) with
some maintenance Lozzo?


> This is an MOT fail as they test the
>anti-dive as well.

Great, "if it's fitted it has to work" sorta thing.
>
>There's a simple solution that requires the fabrication of a pair of
>plates to blank off the plungers from the forks These plates need a
>groove maching in to allow the fork oil to move between two chambers in
>the forks.

Ok ..

> It's simple to do and I'll be making/fitting them to a
>GPZ750 Turbo very soon.

Are these going to be 'machine engineered' (by you) or something we
just knock up with a vice, hacksaw and angle grinder (for the groove)?

If it's the former and assuming yours are the same size as mine (ooo
missus <g>) how much for a pair please? [1]

All the best ....

T i m

[1] I have a Myford ML10, pillar drill, linisher, bench grinder, wet
grinder, 10 tonne press, loads of hand / power tools, (building up)
air tools, Stick / MIG but no Mill as yet. :-(

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 05:07:29 -0700 (PDT), FCS
<sipston_777@my-deja.com> wrote:

>Ah, one thing I read somewhere recently but
>which really threw me my first time on a 4
>is there just isn't any engine braking, hardly.

Excellent. I thought you'd given up on us. Glad to see you're still at
least making an effort.

Really cheered me up, that has. If only I could believe that it was an
intentional joke.

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 11:07:42 +0200, Ace <b.rogers@ifrance.com> wrote:

>>>The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
>>>it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.
>>>
>>>And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever
>>>had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the
>>>overall handling.
>>
>>Is it worth removing though Ace (mention of substituting bits) or
>>should I just leave it all on there?
>
>I never bothered, but I only had the bike for a few months before it
>began to crumble[1] round me and was replaced by a GPX600. It never
>caused my any problems, but I've no idea if this was just good fortune
>or not.

Ok. Well apparently the anti-dive wasn't an issue for the last MOT
about 100 miles (and 3 years) ago. That could mean that they didn't
check for it I suppose but it might mean it could still be ok now.
>
>>p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when
>>the front brake is applied?
>
>Something like that. Lozzo's reply will give the technical details,
>I'm sure.

Cheers.
>
>[1] It had done >30k miles, IIRC, and was fairly ratty when I bought
>it. Then I used it for a 150 miles/day commute, so it didn't take very
>long at all for stuff[2] to start wearing out.

Hopefully this bike won't get that sorta work (and if I needed to I
might still prefer the R100RT). High mileage stuff generally makes
sense for us as we can get it cheap and often lasts for years with our
typical care and use. The CB 250 was about £200 with 64k on it and can
still pull two of us at 70 mph (just). The Rover was £100 with nearly
200,000 on the clock (4 years ago) and this 49k GPZ 'sounds' quite
good (to me anyway).

>[2] Rear sub-frame broke off on one side, with evidence of a previous
>weld becoming visible.

And that's the other thing isn't it, it's history. This 550 has had 8
previous owners but I know the last two did no miles on it (not a good
thing either).

> Clutch started slipping. And basically it was
>just shagged.

A clutch wouldn't be that much though would it, but I guess you are
saying the clutch was just the final straw Ace?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. I am a sucker for a wreck and get much more pleasure from turning
said into something clean and useable (not concourse particularly but
tidy).

Watching this XT125 being craned onto the scrap lorry and not doing
anything about it is still waking me at night (I got there just as it
was happening and felt it was a bit late to ask if I could have / buy
it etc). I asked him why he was getting rid and it was basically
because he wanted the space and the bike had been a bit vandalized
after it was stolen and when they couldn't get it started. I only saw
a pair of broken clock glasses, a broken carb and ignition switch.
Important things (wheels, saddle, frame, tyres, forks, tank, engine)
all looked ok so the rest might have been easyish to do away with /
source on eBay etc?

I thought it might make a good little green laning bike for the
daughter ... it was a Yamaha after all <sob> :-(

What I want someone to tell me is that it was a POS and I'm better off
without it. <sigh>

FCS wrote:
< snip >

He's a loony; but, he's a happy loony.

--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

FCS <sipston_777@my-deja.com> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>
> On Aug 25, 6:45*pm, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)
> >
>
> Ah, one thing I read somewhere recently but
> which really threw me my first time on a 4
> is there just isn't any engine braking, hardly.

As it obviously isn't cylinders you're talking about, 4 wheels? 4 valves? 4
litres? 4 brain cells?



--
frag
Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity

Eddie wrote:

> FCS wrote:
> < snip >
>
> He's a loony; but, he's a happy loony.

He's like a low rent Auvache.

And Steve isn't exactly high cost in the first place.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember FCS <sipston_777@my-deja.com>
saying something like:

>OE should always be used, despite you could
>take an impression of the existing brake lever
>with a large supermarket cob or wodge of papier
>mache then fashion one from araldite..

" "


>At first sight they are identical but ISTR, as it was a dealer
>I knew, that Suzukis you prime every time you start them

" "


--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

T i m wrote:

> If it's the former and assuming yours are the same size as mine (ooo
> missus <g>) how much for a pair please? [1]
T i m
>
> [1] I have a Myford ML10, pillar drill, linisher, bench grinder, wet
> grinder, 10 tonne press, loads of hand / power tools, (building up)
> air tools, Stick / MIG but no Mill as yet. :-(

I have the material, I need to have a word with a mate with a machine
shop to sort the machining of the groove. I can cut and fashion the
basic shape myself in the vice at home. In fact, I'd prefer to do this
as it helps my hand to eye coordination since my TIA.

--
Lozzo
SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka
and a shit load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage
I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill

On 27 Aug 2008 20:01:10 GMT, "Lozzo" <lozzo@lozzo.org.uk> wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>
>> If it's the former and assuming yours are the same size as mine (ooo
>> missus <g>) how much for a pair please? [1]
> T i m
>>
>> [1] I have a Myford ML10, pillar drill, linisher, bench grinder, wet
>> grinder, 10 tonne press, loads of hand / power tools, (building up)
>> air tools, Stick / MIG but no Mill as yet. :-(
>
>I have the material,

So is this a bit of thick ally plate or bar that is the external
dimensions of the valve body and thick enough to take a groove, deep
enough to equal the open capacity of the original valve Lozzo?

>I need to have a word with a mate with a machine
>shop to sort the machining of the groove.

Is this 'plate' to replace item: 16131 (bottom left here ...)
http://tinyurl.com/57slgy

> I can cut and fashion the
>basic shape myself in the vice at home. In fact, I'd prefer to do this
>as it helps my hand to eye coordination since my TIA.

Ok, and I don't mind doing it either (especially in ally). I can mill
a slot in the lathe (job on the tool post, cutter in the 3 jaw)?

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:

> On 27 Aug 2008 20:01:10 GMT, "Lozzo" <lozzo@lozzo.org.uk> wrote:

> > I have the material,
>
> So is this a bit of thick ally plate or bar that is the external
> dimensions of the valve body and thick enough to take a groove, deep
> enough to equal the open capacity of the original valve Lozzo?

Yes.

> > I need to have a word with a mate with a machine
> > shop to sort the machining of the groove.
>
> Is this 'plate' to replace item: 16131 (bottom left here ...)
> http://tinyurl.com/57slgy

It doesn't replace it, it goes between that part and the fork leg
blanking the anti-dive off but allowing free transfer of fork oil
between the two ports you can see there. Details are on the 750 Turbo
forum that Adie pointed me towards.




--
Lozzo
SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka
and a shit load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage
I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill

On 27 Aug, 13:01, FCS <sipston_...@my-deja.com> wrote:

<Megasnip>

It has to be said: you know fuck all.

On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 05:19:44 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
<totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

>On 27 Aug, 13:01, FCS <sipston_...@my-deja.com> wrote:
>
><Megasnip>
>
>It has to be said: you know fuck all.

No it doesn't - it's plainly obvious.

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

Ace wrote:

> > You choose. Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front
> > forks on the Kawasaki. The GT doesn't have anti dive though
>
> The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
> it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.

I realise that, it's the same system on the Turbo (although the Turbo
doesn't have air assistance - IIRC) but the anti-dive may have an impact
on the air pressure setting.


> And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever
> had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the
> overall handling.

It works on mine - but, as you say, has no real effect.

--
Simon

frag wrote:

> > I can understand how it could be a problem if you have a stuck float
> > valve (and the fuel runs past it even when the engine isn't running)
> > but not if left on when running normally Frag?
>
> Nope, ignore that, me getting my chokes and primes mixed up.

....and tickles.

--
Simon