Hi all,

Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)

The neighbour dug this 1986 GPz550 out for me this morning and I
picked it up an hour ago.

Luckily the old (but still reasonably good) battery out of daughters
scooter seemed to be a good fit and I had it spinning over ok.

I splash of petrol out of the 5 gal Jerry can, a quick drain on all
the float bowls to see if anything was coming through and with some
choke, a tiny cough and a splutter she fired up! ;-)

I didn't run it for long because I was suspicious of how much 'oil'
was in the engine (you had to lay it over (away) to see the level in
the sight glass) and when I drained and re-filled it again it seemed
to take half as much as I took out (and probably where all the petrol
had gone. Once I've got it a bit tidier I'll change the oil and
filter again properly).

Fired it up, all pipes running hot and it seems to tick over and rev
up a treat .. ;-)

The rear brake seems to drag quite a bit and the foot pedal seems to
go to the stop. The fronts feel pretty dead so I'll probably start
with the brakes, stripping and cleaning so I know all is ok. The disks
feel good (no ridges, cracks or lips) and look like stainless ones
(iron would have been red rusty after 3 years outside).

I also noticed all the rubbers that join the carbs to the air box seem
to be not on the carbs and from a quick poke they seem very hard (not
rubbery at all). Is this typical, do I just get them back on, is there
something I can do with these to make them more pliable or am I in for
a new set?

Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay?

Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
tighten it up please?

I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light
flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge
actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so
I know the display does).

£35 to transfer the Comp insurance from the CB Two Fifty to this and
about £100 /pa normally (£97 TPFT so not worth dropping back).

Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. As I went over to get the 550 he was just loading an old XT125
onto another neighbours scrap lorry. It had been running but was
nicked and a bit bashed about (couldn't start it, got angry with it)
and found locally again. I *nearly* asked him if I could take that as
well but with umpteen bikes and 1,000,000 other things I'm supposed to
be sorting ... <sigh>

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)
>
Yay!

<Snip>
>
> The rear brake seems to drag quite a bit and the foot pedal seems to
> go to the stop.

Seized fronts and spongey rear. Easily fixed. A caliper strip and
rebuild and new fluid. Maybe new steel hoses.

>
> I also noticed all the rubbers that join the carbs to the air box seem
> to be not on the carbs and from a quick poke they seem very hard (not
> rubbery at all). Is this typical, do I just get them back on, is there
> something I can do with these to make them more pliable or am I in for
> a new set?

Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely.
>
> Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay?

Yep. Or any supplier
>
> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
> tighten it up please?

Er, by tightening up the securing bolts.

>
> I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light
> flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge
> actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so
> I know the display does).

It will. They rarely give trouble.
>
>
> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?

There's no OFF position. It's a vacuum fuel tap so only passes fuel when
the engine's turning over.

There will be a PRIME position, though.

--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

The Older Gentleman wrote:
> T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>
>> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
>> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
>> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?
>
> There's no OFF position. It's a vacuum fuel tap so only passes fuel when
> the engine's turning over.
>
> There will be a PRIME position, though.

PRIME is in-between ON and RES, if you're sure you've found them.

--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:51:15 +0100, Eddie <eddie@deguello.org> wrote:

>The Older Gentleman wrote:
>> T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>>
>>> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
>>> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
>>> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?
>>
>> There's no OFF position. It's a vacuum fuel tap so only passes fuel when
>> the engine's turning over.
>>
>> There will be a PRIME position, though.
>
>PRIME is in-between ON and RES, if you're sure you've found them.

Well I've found one or the other because there was no fuel coming
through, I moved the tap then there was Eddie. ;-)

I suppose if it had been left in the PRIME position and a float jet
was leaking it could have filled the sump with fuel (I don't think it
was water as it smelled like fuel and didn't look all emulsified)?

He says he has the Haynes BOL for it so that might help on a few
points.

All the best ..

T i m

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:39:57 +0100, totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk
(The Older Gentleman) wrote:

>T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)
>>
>Yay!

Good huh! ;-)
>
><Snip>
>>
>> The rear brake seems to drag quite a bit and the foot pedal seems to
>> go to the stop.
>
>Seized fronts and spongey rear.

Semi seized fronts (not dragging too badly and working when you pulled
the lever) but seized / gone rear certainly! ;-)

>Easily fixed. A caliper strip and
>rebuild and new fluid.

New seals and dust covers TOG, or just a good clean, piston lube (I
have some of that red rubber brake assembly lube) and fresh DOT4?

>Maybe new steel hoses.

I'm not a fan but if the old rubber ones are bad I'll replace them
with said.
>
>>
>> I also noticed all the rubbers that join the carbs to the air box seem
>> to be not on the carbs and from a quick poke they seem very hard
>
>Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely.

Just while you are getting them on or do they stay soft for a while?
Are new ones generally soft?
>>
>> Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay?
>
>Yep. Or any supplier

kk
>>
>> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
>> tighten it up please?
>
>Er, by tightening up the securing bolts.

<g>, yes, but I've not seen those sort of bars before and the
'securing bolts' didn't seem that obvious? I'll have a furtle in the
daylight though.
>
>>
>> I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light
>> flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge
>> actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so
>> I know the display does).
>
>It will. They rarely give trouble.

Oh, good. I'm not a fan of electronics on motor vehicles generally.
>>
>>
>> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
>> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
>> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?
>
>There's no OFF position. It's a vacuum fuel tap so only passes fuel when
>the engine's turning over.

Ah, I did consider that option (like her XV750 I believe) but from the
quick glimpse in the half light I thought I could only see one hose
coming from the tap. I'll check it out better tomorrow.
>
>There will be a PRIME position, though.

Ah, and maybe where it was left to get the sump full of fuel. :-(

Well, I'm looking forward to stripping the various bits down and
sorting them out. No better way to get to know yer vehicle and put's
you in a better position should you get problems on the road.

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. Luckily, in every case I've been driving a vehicle and it's
broken down I've been able to tell the AA / whoever exactly what was
wrong.

Fairly new Mk5 Cortina. Auto choke stuck on. I'd released it and got
it going myself before the AA turned up (I did ring them to tell
them). ;-)

Sierra with semi seized caliper. The lights fused on the recovery
lorry as it arrived and I had to jury rig a fix for him. ;-)

R100RT, clutch splines stripped. Just got relayed 175 miles home.
Driver just loaded it on as he did said riders of older bikes often
knew more about their bikes than they did. ;-)

T i m wrote:

> I suppose if it had been left in the PRIME position and a float jet
> was leaking it could have filled the sump with fuel (I don't think it
> was water as it smelled like fuel and didn't look all emulsified)?
>

Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the
airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the
bike is slightly warmed up.

It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it
happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls), and several
hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out.

You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads
from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose.

T i m wrote:
>>> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
>>> tighten it up please?
>> Er, by tightening up the securing bolts.
>
> <g>, yes, but I've not seen those sort of bars before and the
> 'securing bolts' didn't seem that obvious? I'll have a furtle in the
> daylight though.

IIRC, there are clamps that bolt into the top yoke, under the top yoke
cover. It was a long time ago, though.

Yeah, this matches what I remember:
http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1986-a...ist/F2310.html

--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:

> >Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely.
>
> Just while you are getting them on or do they stay soft for a while?

TYhey'll stay soft for long enough.

> Are new ones generally soft?

Softer, certainly. And expensive.

--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:02:38 +0100, Eddie <eddie@deguello.org> wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>>>> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
>>>> tighten it up please?
>>> Er, by tightening up the securing bolts.
>>
>> <g>, yes, but I've not seen those sort of bars before and the
>> 'securing bolts' didn't seem that obvious? I'll have a furtle in the
>> daylight though.
>
>IIRC, there are clamps that bolt into the top yoke, under the top yoke
>cover. It was a long time ago, though.
>
>Yeah, this matches what I remember:
>http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1986-a...ist/F2310.html

Ah, that's handy Eddie, thanks. ;-)

As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but
the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike
was first registered (rather than built etc)?

All the best and thanks again ..

T i m

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 22:57:25 +0100, totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk
(The Older Gentleman) wrote:

>T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>
>> >Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely.
>>
>> Just while you are getting them on or do they stay soft for a while?
>
>TYhey'll stay soft for long enough.

Ah, ok. ;-)
>
>> Are new ones generally soft?
>
>Softer, certainly. And expensive.

Gotcha, boiling water it is then.

All the best ..

T i m

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:

> As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but
> the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike
> was first registered (rather than built etc)?

It's quite likely to be an A2 that spent some time in a showroom. It
doesn't matter, anyway: the differences will only be something minor
like decal colours.

--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 07:16:32 +0100, totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk
(The Older Gentleman) wrote:

>T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>
>> As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but
>> the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike
>> was first registered (rather than built etc)?
>
>It's quite likely to be an A2 that spent some time in a showroom. It
>doesn't matter, anyway: the differences will only be something minor
>like decal colours.

Ah, brilliant, thanks TOG.

Also as you seem to know such things <g>, why does the logbook call
it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?

FEIW, when doing an online insurance quote I chose for the model ..

KAWASAKI GPZ 550 Sports 1981-1991 553cc Manual Petrol

... which was the best / nearest match but wasn't sure if the 'sports'
bit was right (was there a sports model, is mine it etc)?


All the best ..

T i m

p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
that was mad)? :-(

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:33:03 -0500, "Simian"
<Simian@in_valid.semi-evolved.org> wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>
>> I suppose if it had been left in the PRIME position and a float jet
>> was leaking it could have filled the sump with fuel (I don't think it
>> was water as it smelled like fuel and didn't look all emulsified)?
>>
>
>Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the
>airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the
>bike is slightly warmed up.

This is even after I've changed the oil yes (to help clear remnants
etc)?
>
>It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it
>happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls),

Ah, I think I might be tempted to remove the carbs and strip them down
but at the moment it's a touch of don't fix what's not broken?

> and several
>hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out.

Oh, what were the symptoms please Simian?
>
>You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads
>from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose.

Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,
that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
mine)? ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:
> On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:33:03 -0500, "Simian"
> <Simian@in_valid.semi-evolved.org> wrote:
>
>> You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads
>>from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose.
>
> Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,

No, the bike pump is for pressuring the front forks, nothing to do with
the anti-dive. There should be a valve just under the top yoke on one
side, with a link pipe to the other. Use a gauge and a hand pump to
adjust the pressure to ~12psi. Don't over-pressure it, or you'll
probably pop something.

This is, of course, assuming that they still hold pressure...

> that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
> mine)? ;-)

No, it doesn't. ISTR that a common hack was to remove the gubbins and
blank it all off (I never bothered), but I was told recently that you
need to make a bypass thingy for where it bolts onto the fork to let the
fluid move.

--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

T i m wrote:
>
> Also as you seem to know such things <g>, why does the logbook call
> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?

Many manufacturers (Kawasaki in particular) use different names for
their "branding" and for the "official" model names; this is an example
of that.

My ZX-9R is technically known as a "ZX900-E2". My GT750 was a Z750-P5, IIRC.

There was a thread about this, just last week, I think.

> FEIW, when doing an online insurance quote I chose for the model ..
>
> KAWASAKI GPZ 550 Sports 1981-1991 553cc Manual Petrol
>
> .. which was the best / nearest match but wasn't sure if the 'sports'
> bit was right (was there a sports model, is mine it etc)?

That should be the right one.

> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
> that was mad)? :-(

I haven't ridden a Divvy much, but I guess it should be better. Nimbler,
less lardy.

--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

T i m wrote:
> > Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the
> > airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the
> > bike is slightly warmed up.
>
> This is even after I've changed the oil yes (to help clear remnants
> etc)?

Yup, If the contamination wasn't particularly bad, then it'll probably
be OK, but if you've got half a tank drained into the sump, the
remnants of oil after a change still contain a significant amount of
petrol.


> > It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it
> > happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls),
>
> Ah, I think I might be tempted to remove the carbs and strip them down
> but at the moment it's a touch of don't fix what's not broken?

Wouldn't bother if it's running properly, just don't leave it on prime.


> > and several
> > hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out.
>
> Oh, what were the symptoms please Simian?

Slip then grab.


> > You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that
> > reads from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I
> > suppose.
>
> Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,
> that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
> mine)? ;-)

Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung. On the left fork there's a
tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think.
Put too much in and the forks over extend and top out, too little and
they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to
check to make sure.


The biggest problem with the handling of the GPZ is the forks being too
soft on slow compression, but rock hard on fast compression, there is
no way of fixing both of these problems at the same time, other than by
riding as smoothly as you can.

T i m wrote:


> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
> that was mad)? :-(

CBR600s are quite tame really. Mines a bit less tame than most of its
age due t the exhaust, filter and jetting kit, but it's not scary. A
ZX10R C1H or GSXR1000 K5/6 is what I'd call mad

--
Lozzo
SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka
and a shit load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage
I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 09:04:25 +0100, Eddie <eddie@deguello.org> wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>> On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:33:03 -0500, "Simian"
>> <Simian@in_valid.semi-evolved.org> wrote:
>>
>>> You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads
>>>from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose.
>>
>> Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,
>
>No, the bike pump is for pressuring the front forks, nothing to do with
>the anti-dive. There should be a valve just under the top yoke on one
>side, with a link pipe to the other. Use a gauge and a hand pump to
>adjust the pressure to ~12psi. Don't over-pressure it, or you'll
>probably pop something.

Ah, gotit, ta. So the air assists the springs (seen in the fiche)?
>
>This is, of course, assuming that they still hold pressure...

Well, if it means anything they seemed to look and feel alright when I
wheeled it over and braked a few times to check the front brakes /
headset etc.
>
>> that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
>> mine)? ;-)
>
>No, it doesn't. ISTR that a common hack was to remove the gubbins and
>blank it all off (I never bothered), but I was told recently that you
>need to make a bypass thingy for where it bolts onto the fork to let the
>fluid move.

(understood) And more good info ta.

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:
> On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 09:04:25 +0100, Eddie <eddie@deguello.org> wrote:
>
>> No, the bike pump is for pressuring the front forks, nothing to do with
>> the anti-dive. There should be a valve just under the top yoke on one
>> side, with a link pipe to the other. Use a gauge and a hand pump to
>> adjust the pressure to ~12psi. Don't over-pressure it, or you'll
>> probably pop something.
>
> Ah, gotit, ta. So the air assists the springs (seen in the fiche)?

Yes.

>> This is, of course, assuming that they still hold pressure...
>
> Well, if it means anything they seemed to look and feel alright when I
> wheeled it over and braked a few times to check the front brakes /
> headset etc.

IIRC, if they weren't pressured it wasn't really noticeable when pushing
it around, but it made a world of difference when you rode it. I vaguely
remember that it used to feel like there was a problem with the back end.

--
Eddie eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900 http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 03:46:09 -0500, "Simian"
<Simian@in_valid.semi-evolved.org> wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>> > Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the
>> > airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the
>> > bike is slightly warmed up.
>>
>> This is even after I've changed the oil yes (to help clear remnants
>> etc)?
>
>Yup, If the contamination wasn't particularly bad, then it'll probably
>be OK, but if you've got half a tank drained into the sump, the
>remnants of oil after a change still contain a significant amount of
>petrol.
>
I drained out probably 4 l of a runny oil looking fluid that had a bit
of a petroly smell about it. It still felt very much like oil but
moved more like fork oil (even when cold).
>
>> > It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it
>> > happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls),
>>
>> Ah, I think I might be tempted to remove the carbs and strip them down
>> but at the moment it's a touch of don't fix what's not broken?
>
>Wouldn't bother if it's running properly, just don't leave it on prime.

Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when I
find it) ;-)
>
>
>> > and several
>> > hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out.
>>
>> Oh, what were the symptoms please Simian?
>
>Slip then grab.

Ok ..
>
>
>> > You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that
>> > reads from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I
>> > suppose.
>>
>> Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,
>> that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
>> mine)? ;-)
>
>Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung.

Ta.

> On the left fork there's a
>tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think.
>Put too much in and the forks over extend and top out, too little and
>they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to
>check to make sure.

Ok I've sent the assembly on the fiche and have a pump / gauge so I'll
check it out when I can.
>
>
>The biggest problem with the handling of the GPZ is the forks being too
>soft on slow compression, but rock hard on fast compression, there is
>no way of fixing both of these problems at the same time, other than by
>riding as smoothly as you can.

Ok, well I try to do that anyway but at least I know what to look out
for now.

All the best and thanks again ..

T i m

On 26 Aug 2008 09:24:16 GMT, "Lozzo" <lozzo@lozzo.org.uk> wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>
>
>> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
>> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
>> that was mad)? :-(
>
>CBR600s are quite tame really. Mines a bit less tame than most of its
>age due t the exhaust, filter and jetting kit, but it's not scary.

I guess that depends on the fastest thing you had ridden before, what
you were riding at the time and what you were wearing.

I was on my R100RT and maty on his 600. He pulls over somewhere,
basically nicks my BM (cos he wanted to have a go on one) and leaves
me with his 600 to catch up. So, digital throttle, nothing happening
below 6k and a jacket that inflates like a balloon when not sitting
behind a f-off big screen. :-(

Oh, and he's off filtering in the fairly fast moving traffic on my
beemer.

I do remember that it was very planted though, man-hole covers and the
like didn't flick you sideways 6 inches like on the RT but as for
'fun', no, glad to be back on the old BM.

> A
>ZX10R C1H or GSXR1000 K5/6 is what I'd call mad

I'm quite sure, and hence why they have never interested me. The 900
Divvy was obviously capable of much more than I asked of it but (and
it was superior to the RT in nearly every way) but left me completely
cold [1]. I'm even looking at this 550 and wondering if I can raise
and widen the bars somehow? I wouldn't even mind losing the little
fairing and making it just a naked bike (and with a steerable
headlight).

All the best ..

T i m

[1] I was loaned it for a week. I rode it about then home the first
day I got it and similar the second time when I took it back.

On 26 Aug, 11:17, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:

The 900
> Divvy was obviously capable of much more than I asked of it but (and
> it was superior to the RT in nearly every way) but left me completely
> cold

That's how it left me. I bought a new one in about 2000. It was
incredibly efficient, reliable, comfy, decent fairing, big tank: it
replaced my Kawasaki GT750 as a comuter and tourer. I just got bored
to hell with it, and chopped it in for a Triumph Trophy 1200 (which in
turn got chopped for the present BMW).

The 900 Div was a bloody good working bike: if I was a long-distance
despatch rider, I'd have one.

Oh, and it was a lardy old bus. God knows why it weighed as much as it
did.

On 26 Aug, 08:21, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:


>
> Also as you seem to know such things <g>, why does the logbook call
> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?
>
GPz is the sort of 'public' model name. 'ZX' is Kawasaki's own ID
scheme. Confusing, I know.
>
> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
> that was mad)? :-(

No way

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 03:50:39 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
<totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

>On 26 Aug, 11:17, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>
> The 900
>> Divvy was obviously capable of much more than I asked of it but (and
>> it was superior to the RT in nearly every way) but left me completely
>> cold
>
>That's how it left me. I bought a new one in about 2000. It was
>incredibly efficient, reliable, comfy, decent fairing, big tank: it
>replaced my Kawasaki GT750 as a comuter and tourer. I just got bored
>to hell with it, and chopped it in for a Triumph Trophy 1200 (which in
>turn got chopped for the present BMW).

Maybe BM's are something you grow into as you (we) get older then TOG.
;-)
>
>The 900 Div was a bloody good working bike: if I was a long-distance
>despatch rider, I'd have one.

Agreed. This one had done 60k and never been touched.
>
>Oh, and it was a lardy old bus. God knows why it weighed as much as it
>did.

Yeah, I noticed that (especially compared with the old RT) The Divy
dry (239kg) is the same weight as my RT with 5 gallons of fuel but it
felt much heavier.

When I got this 550 in the back yard last night it wasn't easy to
maneuver into place as the brakes were dragging so I thought I'd try
lifting the back round, and much to my surprise I did, quite easily.
;-)

All the best ..

T i m

I was really looking forward to getting stuck into it today but as I
was tidying up the bits yesterday, instead of lifting my leg up ready
to over the crap just behind the garage door I knee'd (hard) the steel
door frame instead. I still can't bend my leg properly ... :-(

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 03:52:34 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
<totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

>On 26 Aug, 08:21, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Also as you seem to know such things <g>, why does the logbook call
>> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
>> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?
>>
>GPz is the sort of 'public' model name. 'ZX' is Kawasaki's own ID
>scheme. Confusing, I know.

Tell me about it. It's ok once you know you can generally use any
anagram of a mix of letters but up till then? :-(
>>
>> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
>> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
>> that was mad)? :-(
>
>No way

Cool. So would you say it is an 'interesting' bike to ride (today) and
why please?

If there were any ergonomic adjustments you would make to it, what
would they be?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. The previous owner noted the bars felt very narrow (compared with
his Firestorm at the time anyway).

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>
> I drained out probably 4 l of a runny oil looking fluid that had a bit
> of a petroly smell about it. It still felt very much like oil but
> moved more like fork oil (even when cold).

Chuck a lighted match in a little bit and see if it says Wuff.

> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
> pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when I
> find it) ;-)

IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a fish
drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).

--
frag
Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity

frag wrote:
> T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>>
>> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
>> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
>> pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when
>> I find it) ;-)
>
> IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a
> fish drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).

"Prime" actually means "Open, Even When The Engine Isn't Running", and is
found on vacuum-operated taps. I think you're thinking of the choke.

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 13:10:38 +0100, frag <news4@ukrm.co.uk> wrote:

>T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>>
>> I drained out probably 4 l of a runny oil looking fluid that had a bit
>> of a petroly smell about it. It still felt very much like oil but
>> moved more like fork oil (even when cold).
>
>Chuck a lighted match in a little bit and see if it says Wuff.

Not sure it would have Frag as even though it didn't smell just like
oil I'm not sure it was that fumey either. Mind you, had what little
he probably had in the tank actually leaked through the carbs and into
the engine may have long since lost all it's lighter fractions
(benzene etc).

It's funny what people say about fresh fuel etc. I dare say they are
right when it comes to performance engines but the REB350 and my old
kitcar would probably run on paraffin and the fuel now in the 550 is
probably 5 years old (and has been in a sealed Jerry can all that
time). It doesn't seem to mind it (starts and runs smooth enough). ;-)

Just think how fast it will go with some real fresh fuel in it eh!
>
>> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
>> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
>> pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when I
>> find it) ;-)
>
>IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a fish
>drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).

I can understand how it could be a problem if you have a stuck float
valve (and the fuel runs past it even when the engine isn't running)
but not if left on when running normally Frag?

All the best ..

T i m

On 26 Aug, 13:01, T i m <n...@spaced.me.uk> wrote:

>
> Cool. So would you say it is an 'interesting' bike to ride (today) and
> why please?

It makes a nice noise. It's amazingly economical. It's just 'fun'.
>
> If there were any ergonomic adjustments you would make to it, what
> would they be?
>
I'd change the bars for something a bit lower. Maybe Telefix.

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 12:23:11 GMT, "platypus"
<monotreme@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

>frag wrote:
>> T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>>>
>>> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
>>> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
>>> pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when
>>> I find it) ;-)
>>
>> IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a
>> fish drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).
>
>"Prime" actually means "Open, Even When The Engine Isn't Running", and is
>found on vacuum-operated taps. I think you're thinking of the choke.

Ah, that would make more sense.

The CB Two Fifty may have something wrong in the carb (or it's been
setup badly) as although it starts on the button when cold it is
really quite touchy about running on choke (or even partial choke) and
not happy till it's warmed up a bit (2 mins or so)?

It seems to have a real flat / dead spot off high tick over yet will
start at the hint of the starter and tick over very slowly when warm.

I picked up a spare carb (ebay) with the intention of having a
potentially lower mileage one cleaned and ready to swap over (the CB
has done 60k miles). Just not got rounduit yet. :-(

All the best ..

T i m